French perfumes in the USSR. The best aromas of perfumes made in the USSR
Many of us remember from childhood how carefully and solemnly our mother applied perfume. Only for the most important events and very little. In Soviet times, getting real French perfume was much more difficult than it is today. But there was no doubt - these were truly originals and only of the best quality.
Fidji by Guy Laroche
They were very popular among French perfumes in the USSR. A fragrance from the floral family with an exotic and slightly extravagant character.
Top notes: tuberose with bergamot and galbanum, hyacinth with iris.
Middle notes: cloves with violet, orris root and aldehydes, jasmine.
Base notes: amber and vetiver, patchouli and musk, oakmoss.
Climate by Lancome
They are considered classic French perfumes from the times of our mothers' youth. The floral green aroma of these French perfumes in the USSR was equally suitable for daytime and evening use.
Top notes: jasmine and violet, rose, narcissus, peach and bergamot.
Middle notes: rosemary and tuberose, aldehydes.
Base notes: bamboo with vetiver and musk.
Diorella by Dior
Popular French perfume in the USSR is Diorella from the Dior brand. I really liked the smell because of its freshness and spirit of freedom.
Top notes: bergamot, melon, basil and green notes.
Middle notes: honeysuckle, carnation and cyclamen, rose and peach blossom.
Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, musk and patchouli.
Sikkim by Lancome
Among the French perfumes of the 70s and 80s, many women still remember Sikkim. A fragrance from the group of oriental floral aromas. This is one of the most sophisticated French perfumes of Soviet times.
Top notes: cumin, bergamot, gardenia and aldehydes.
Middle notes: rose and narcissus, carnation with iris, jasmine.
Base notes: oakmoss with amber, patchouli and leather.
Among the real French perfumes of Soviet times, many women liked Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso. A floral chypre scent suitable for evening and daytime use.
Top notes: neroli, bergamot with coriander, lemon with rose and cloves.
Middle notes: ylang-ylang, hyacinth, patchouli with mimosa.
Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vetiver and civet.
Little is known about Soviet perfumery during the period after the revolution and World War II. In 1917, the world famous house of A. Rallet & Co was nationalized and first renamed State Soap Factory No. 4, and then became the Liberty Factory.
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At the same time, the Novaya Zarya factory (the successor to the Brokar company) took up the production of fragrances, and Svoboda concentrated on the production of soap, tooth powders, creams, shaving products, etc. Unfortunately, the traditions and experience accumulated before the revolution were partially lost. And because of the political regime, there was no talk of free circulation of spirits between the USSR and Western countries.
In the Soviet Union, the following were extremely popular:
- “Riga lilac” from Dzintars;
- Anais Anais by Cacharel;
- Estee by Estee Lauder;
- Mon Parfum from Paloma Picasso and other legends, which we will talk about in more detail in this publication.
Industrial development in the post-war period
After World War II, the perfumery and cosmetics industry was restored not only Soviet Union, but also Europe. Already in 1947, Dior released the Miss Dior perfume, and a year later the house Nina Ricci presented its fragrance L" Air du Temps. Production also resumed in the USSR essential oils and aromatic substances. The factories “New Dawn” and “Northern Lights” started working again. And in 1949, the training of future professionals began. But, despite the general growth in production and a wide range ( large and small factories produced up to 400 items!), the lack of variety of raw materials gradually became noticeable. To exchange experience, leading specialists and employees of Soyuzparfymerprom and VNIISNDV began to travel abroad already in the 1950s and 60s - to China, France, Switzerland, then business trips took place to Brazil, the USA and Holland. There they got acquainted with Western craftsmen and the work of perfume companies.
However, the exchange of experience was not one-sided. Then, for the first time in the USSR, a show took place fashionable clothes house of Dior. This happened in 1959, and at the same time Soviet women discovered the Miss Dior fragrance. They say that representatives of the French fashion house brought with them about 500 liters of perfume. Some of them were sprayed during fashion presentations, and some were presented to the wives of diplomats and senior officials.
Despite the fact that “New Dawn”, “Northern Lights” and other factories of the Union republics produced their products in sufficient quantities, good cosmetics and perfume remained in short supply. At the same time, by good they often meant imported goods. Sometimes perfumes from European countries, primarily East Germany, Poland, and France, appeared in the USSR, but they were distributed through narrow channels of personal connections or sold in the Beryozka stores that appeared in the mid-1960s.
The most accessible imported perfumes were, perhaps, Polish ones, for example, Pani Walewska, combining aldehydic notes with tones of rose, jasmine and lily of the valley. Or the Bulgarian Signature, Sonnet, Capri, Sha Noar and others. But, of course, the French ones were considered the most desirable. The bottles were stored for decades, even long empty. Let's remember some of them.
One of the most popular fragrances among Soviet women is Fidji. A light, feminine, airy composition of notes of iris, hyacinth, jasmine, violet and rose with the addition of citrus accents and warm woody musk tones was released by Guy Laroche in 1966. The dream of millions of women, it was perfect for both daytime use and creating an evening look. Many people are still in search of Fidji, but today this eau de toilette, inspired by the Pacific Islands, is licensed from L'Oreal.
Climat from the French brand Lancome is a whole era and, in some way, a symbol of the 1970s. Being the embodiment of femininity, luxury and charm, this composition became one of the most desired gifts for Soviet women. Just remember “The Irony of Fate”, where Ippolit Matveevich gives Nadya a bottle of French perfume. This black and white box contained exactly the Climat! The film shows the original 1967 design. Only later did packaging become familiar to us blue. The original composition, created by Gerard Goupy, was built on unforgettable floral-aldehyde chords. Unfortunately, today Climat in its original form is no longer produced. In 2005, Lancome, celebrating its 70th anniversary, brought back some fragrances to life, including Climat. The brand's perfumers tried to recreate the bouquet as closely as possible, but the charm of the original was too difficult to replicate. The bottle, created in the 1960s by artist Georges Delhomme, has also undergone changes.
Another legendary creation by Gerard Goupy - the attractive, mesmerizing, bottomless Magie Noir. More than one woman in the USSR in the 1980s lost her head after hearing the symphony of this magical perfume. A complex composition of notes of black currant, raspberry, hyacinth, Bulgarian rose, honey, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, narcissus, cedar chords, musk, sandalwood, vetiver and other undertones, it would seem worthy of being the creation of the times of medieval alchemists. But it was then that witches and witches were burned at the stake! Truly, this bouquet is luxurious, as is its black glass bottle, designed by Pierre Dinant.
A real masterpiece and standard of oriental perfumes. At the same time scandalous and seductive, provocative and bewitching, Opium, released by the house of Yves Saint Laurent in 1977, was, according to some, a hidden drug propaganda! According to Yves-Saint Laurent himself, perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jean Amic were supposed to create perfumes worthy of the Chinese Empress Ci Xi herself. The complex, multi-layered interweaving of citrus notes with sensual, spicy chords, animalistic, balsamic and smoky woody tones is ingenious and unique!
Aroma Yves Saint Laurent
- Opium
Other iconic compositions
By the way, oriental perfumery In the 1970s and 80s, it was held in special esteem not only in the USSR. But in the Soviet Union, among similar fragrances, perfumes such as those from Christian Dior, the Guy Laroche brand, Ispahan from Yves Rocher,
However, it should be said that in the Soviet Union there were fragrances that became popular in the West. One of the striking examples is, released in 1992 under the brand of Soviet fashion designer Vyacheslav Zaitsev. True, this perfume was developed jointly with L’Oreal, but the designer participated in its creation from start to finish and came up with the name himself.
Maroussia is the name of the mother and granddaughter of Vyacheslav Zaitsev, and it is consonant with the phrase “my Rus'” (ma Russie, French). The aroma triumphantly appeared on the Western market and is of interest to this day. Including in modern Russia. Its intriguing sound intertwines invisible fibers of a whole galaxy of shades, among which animalistic, aldehydic, floral, resinous and sweetish facets stand out.
What perfumes do you remember from the Soviet past?
In Soviet and perestroika times, the range of perfumes was small: your mother will probably remember 3-4 brands of perfumes that she and all her friends used. For the sake of the coveted bottle, sacrifices had to be made: imported perfumes could cost as much as the average worker’s salary, and it was not easy to buy them.
We have collected 10 of the most popular fragrances from the past that you will be interested in learning about.
Climate by Lancome
The Climat fragrance was first released in 1967 in Paris. And in the 70s in the USSR it became a real hit and the most desired gift for a Soviet girl. There was a piquant legend that it was precisely this perfume that French prostitutes supposedly used! Moreover, in the film “The Irony of Fate,” Hippolyte gives Nadya that very perfume... Well, how can you not start dreaming about Climat after this?
Popular
As for the main notes of the fragrance, these are violet, lily of the valley, bergamot, rose, narcissus and sandalwood. By the way, the Lancome brand recently released a new version of Climat, which sounds very modern and will appeal to many.
"Red Moscow" factory "New Zarya"
This fragrance is perhaps considered the main symbol of the Soviet perfumery past. Now it seems to you that “Red Moscow” can only be used to repel mosquitoes, but earlier perfumes were occupied place of honor on the fashionista's shelf.
There is a version that “Red Moscow”, first released in 1925, is directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances. French perfumer August Michel allegedly created the perfume “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” especially for Maria Feodorovna, and after the revolution, “Red Moscow” was produced at the Novaya Zarya factory based on it.
This fragrance is based on jasmine, rose and spices. And perfume can also be considered a real “bestseller” (though only because Soviet women for a long time there was no other choice): in the early 30s, literally everyone smelled of them, decades later our mothers discovered the scent, and today it is produced in the same packaging as 90 years ago.
"Riga lilac" from Dzintars
If a young man, for financial reasons, did not give his girlfriend “French perfume” (meaning Climat, of course), then he probably opted for another, more budget hit - “Riga Lilac” by the Latvian brand Dzintars. This scent was also in short supply - it was brought exclusively from the Baltic states.
There is probably no need to talk about the key chords - from the name it is clear that it is lilac, lilac and again lilac. Subtle notes of cinnamon give the perfume a special charm, making the aroma spicy and “tasty.”
Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent
The classic Opium fragrance, released in 1977, was the creation of Yves Saint Laurent himself - the master controlled the process of creating perfume from start to finish, from perfume composition to bottle design. In Soviet times, Opium was available only to those lucky women who, by some miracle, managed to “snatch” the coveted bottle: sometimes limited quantities appeared in department stores.
Today, the first version of Opium may seem too harsh and intrusive, but the fragrance has many re-releases to suit every taste. Classic version with a pronounced oriental character, it was floral-spicy and had a slightly “medicinal” trail. This, by the way, was intended - Saint Laurent was inspired by the aroma of Japanese boxes for storing medicine. And, of course, opium - let's be honest.
J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche
Another perfume that enjoyed special popular love is J’ai Ose, which appeared in 1978. Like Opium, the fragrance belonged to the oriental-floral group and was very fashionable. The perfume can rightfully be called legendary: Soviet girls with demanding taste chose it. Of course, J’ai Ose was successfully sold in Europe.
The heart of the fragrance contains sandalwood, patchouli, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, cedar and rose, and the chords of aldehyde, coriander, citrus and peach added an interesting sound to it.
L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
Perfume with a legendary lid in the shape of soaring doves was once the hallmark of the House of Nina Ricci, and even now it occupies a worthy place in the line of fragrances. The brand released L’Air du Temps in 1948, but the perfume appeared in the Soviet Union much later, although it was worth its weight in gold.
Like many perfumes of that time, L’Air du Temps is very rich and quite concentrated. Its most characteristic notes are clove and iris, which are harmoniously complemented by chords of bergamot, rose and jasmine.
Anais Anais by Cacharel
The delicate floral scent of Anais Anais, like other imported perfumes, appeared in the USSR shortly after perestroika, although the “decaying West” became acquainted with it much earlier - back in 1978. Be that as it may, our women immediately fell in love with it and for a long time was the most desired gift for March 8th.
Unlike most perfumes of that time, Anais Anais has an unobtrusive and fresh sound. Of course, because orange, currant, white lily, Moroccan jasmine and “green” shades are a very elegant combination.
Chanel No. 5 from Chanel
An eternal classic, a legend, a perfume masterpiece - there is a lot to be said about this famous fragrance. It was released in 1921 and is still sold to this day - such long-lived perfumers can be counted on one hand. The faces of the fragrance were many stars, from Coco Chanel herself to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou and even Brad Pitt.
In Soviet times, many perfume lovers, of course, heard about these perfumes, but it was almost impossible to get them. That is why, after the restructuring of Chanel No. 5, as a symbol of luxurious life, was used by Russian women resounding success.
Estee by Estee Lauder
Estee Lauder is the first American brand that managed to break into the USSR cosmetics market during perestroika. Women were immediately interested in the perfume with the laconic name Estee. And this despite the fact that it appeared in the USA back in 1968! But for Soviet ladies the scent was a hot new thing...
The floral aroma is based on aldehyde, coriander, rose, jasmine and iris. And cedar, ylang-ylang and honey are responsible for the interesting original sound... Your mother has great taste!
Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso
Another popular scent that many women wore in the 80s was Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso. This perfume was released by the daughter of the great artist Pablo Picasso, who has been inventing for many years jewelry for Tiffany home. But Paloma, like her dad, is a very gifted person, which is why she managed to create a cult product in the world of perfumery. The perfumes that were popular in Soviet times can still be found on store shelves today, but now instead of Mon Parfum they are simply called Paloma Picasso.
We are sure that you will also like this “mother’s” scent. The combination of notes of hyacinth, ylang-ylang, bergamot, angelica, rose and citrus is still relevant today.
How many of you remember the smell of the Red Moscow perfume? If you were in the USSR era, then you must have heard this smell at least once, because it was one of the most popular and famous perfumes of that time.
In this issue we will remember what other examples of old-school perfumery were used by people of the Soviet era. To some, these names will mean nothing, but for others, they were and remain the scents of yesteryear, which cannot be replaced by any modern scent from Dior or Chanel.
1. Cologne “Carpathians”. Lviv perfume factory. Strong, noble-Soviet smell.
2. “Perhaps...” perfume. Or maybe not perfume? Created in Poland and named after Eddie Rosner's popular song "Maybe". Flower bouquet with a subtle and airy aroma.
3. The legend of Russian perfumery - “Red Moscow” perfume. For some, these perfumes are a symbol of the era and longing for the old days; for others, they are a sign of conservatism. The trail of perfume blooms with aromas of iris and vanilla.
6. Perfume “Kuznetsky Most”. The charm of a classic! Top note: grapefruit, currant. Heart of the aroma: pineapple. Base: cedar, musk.
7. Perfume “Recognition” was created at the Novaya Zarya factory and is dedicated to the theater. In a light floral composition there is a declaration of love to the theater and woman. Citrus and fresh greenery with hints of white peony and jasmine are a hymn to beauty and emotions.
8. Perfume in the form of a table lamp is called “Lamp”. Plant "Flora", Tallinn.
9. Perfume “Darling”. Factory "New Dawn". Notes of freesia and incense.
10. Perfume “Charming Minx”. Factory "New Dawn". Tree moss, vanilla, coumarin.
11. Perfume “Persian lilac”. Factory "New Dawn". The noble aroma of lush lilac flowers.
Perfume and glass factory "Scarlet Sails". Quite a rich smell, in terms of impact it can only compete with Castaneda’s mushrooms. Enlightenment guaranteed.
13. Perfume “Lights of the Lighthouse”. Perfume and glass factory " Scarlet Sails" The perfume is light, watery and airy.
14. Chypre cologne. Created by the famous French perfumer Francois Coty. Having visited Cyprus, Coty decided to preserve the aromas of the island in his memory by creating the legendary cologne Chypre, or, in Russian, “Chypre”. The Soviet version of the cologne was significantly different from Coty's perfumery, but still had a strong and lasting aroma with notes of bergamot, sandalwood and oakmoss.
15. Vintage perfume “Queen of Spades” was made by perfumers of the “New Zarya” factory in honor of the 150th anniversary of A.S. Pushkin. A classic chypre scent with rich, juicy tones of oakmoss, patchouli and bergamot.
16. Perfume “Red Poppy”. Factory "Red Dawn".
20. “Stranger” perfume belonged to the luxury class and cost about the same as a small French perfume, so it stood on store shelves for a long time and was considered a “status” gift.