Tools and accessories for sewing. Thimble

During embroidery and hand sewing, the middle finger of the right hand is constantly used to help push the needle through the fabric. Especially if the fabric is thick. To protect your finger from needle pricks, wear a thimble.

To be honest, I sew and embroider all the time without a thimble, I have never used it and so far I have very little idea how it can help - I already sew very quickly and evenly, and practically do not prick myself. But they say that sewing is different with it. So you have to learn and get used to it. So far there isn't even a single thimble. :-) Although I sew a lot and constantly.

The thimble should be selected in size to match your middle finger, approximately the same as choosing a ring for yourself. If the thimble does not fit tightly on your finger, it will slide off; if it is tight, it will squeeze your finger - it is very uncomfortable to use. A correctly chosen thimble will be an indispensable assistant for sewing and embroidery.

When you first put on a thimble, they say you will most likely feel awkward, but over time this feeling disappears.

How to work with a thimble correctly? Place a thimble on the middle finger of your right hand and hold the needle with your index and thumb. We pierce the fabric and push the needle with a thimble, while the eye of the needle should rest against the side of the thimble.

Some peoples wear the thimble not on the middle finger, but on the index finger.

You can first practice working with a thimble and a needle without thread.

Thimbles differ not only in size, but also in shape. A cap-shaped thimble is convenient for embroidery. There are indentations on the top and part of its body to prevent the needle from slipping.

Thimble in a case.

But there are also thimbles in the shape of a ring or open at the ends. Suitable for those who have long nails.

Thimbles are used not only for their intended purpose. This is a separate and quite popular theme for collecting - can be found on sale entire collections of thimbles at once, as well as special cases for storing them. They can hold a hundred or more thimbles.

And there are also cases for expensive personalized thimbles.

From the history of thimbles

According to H. Greif, the founder of the thimble museum in Kreglingen (Germany), the very first thimble is an object found at the site of the ancient man Sungir in Russia. This is also mentioned in E. Sosna’s book “Materials on the history of the sewing thimble in Russia.” But what we mean is not the kind of thimble we now imagine, but a bone ring worn on the finger of the hand when sewing.

The first written mention of thimbles in Rus' is in the income and expenditure book of the Iversky Monastery for 1669, when 40 thimbles and 300 sewing needles were purchased for the monastery.

Thimbles were also used as decorations. In the 182nd century, toiletries came into fashion - sets of toiletries or sewing accessories. These small sets were a costume decoration; they were worn on a chain attached to the belt. A thimble, often an elaborate one, was also kept here. precious metals. In the 19th century, Russian jewelry thimbles were made in Veliky Ustyug, St. Petersburg, Moscow, and also in Vladikavkaz.

Modern thimbles are made by our well-known companies: the St. Petersburg Lomonosov Porcelain Factory, the Northern Chern Factory ( Veliky Ustyug), factory "Rostov enamel".

Matryoshka thimbles.

Russian thimble doll Matrioshka is known abroad. These are small wooden nesting dolls in the form of thimbles.

There are also papier-mâché thimbles in the styles of Fedoskino, Palekh, Mstera and Kholuy miniatures.

There are thimbles made of ceramics - Gzhel and others, thimbles made of bone (these can be found in the Arkhangelsk region).

There are a lot of different souvenir thimbles - for tourists and for collections; they are not used for their intended purpose.

Along with cheap souvenirs, you can also find real ones - however, they are expensive, especially old ones - made of silver and gold, with precious stones and painted, personalized... real tiny works of art!

Here is a list of articles about thimbles and their history - thimbles.ru/page.php?52. Very interesting read!

box with a collection of thimbles

unexpected use :-)

antique thimbles

with stones

ceramic thimbles

how to hold a thimble

Tiffany - thimble case

Thimble "Victoria and Albert" Balmoral Castle. 1837-1901.

thimble with matryoshka dolls painting

Fedoskino thimble

painted ceramics

matryoshka thimble, beads

painted ceramics

Moscow thimble - with golden domes

collection of Russian thimbles - collectible

dog with sausage

thimble doll Matrioshka

Russian thimble doll Matrioshka

Russian thimble doll Matrioshka

Russian thimble doll Matrioshka

there is a book on the history of thimbles abroad

Chinese thimble - cloisonne enamel

enamel, Chinese thimble

wooden thimbles, India

Detail of a thimble, India, silver. 19th century

Dona, I think we now have slightly different ideas about what it means to sew a lot :)) A lot means several hours a day and with precision sewing machine, and the speed is 8-10 hours long dress:) The stitch length is 1.5-2mm :) Nowadays they sew completely differently :) Therefore, thimbles are not so necessary :)) When I sewed clothes by hand (there was no sewing machine then), I couldn’t do it without a thimble - when continuous sewing, your finger starts to hurt after the first hour :)
As for using a thimble, there are many ways: firstly, each nation has its own characteristics; secondly, there is a difference in purpose - for sewing, for example, or for quilting. I was taught to sew like this: we put a thimble on the middle finger of the hand where the needle is :), we hold the needle with our thumb and forefinger, and its eye constantly rests against the TOP of the thimble - i.e. into the pad of the finger under it, or rather, even into the edge of the pad :). This is one way. You can also rest the needle against the SIDE of the thimble, but this is less convenient - there is a greater chance of it slipping and hitting your finger :)
I have several different thimbles - a regular metal one, an openwork silver-plated one with enamel, a bone one and a porcelain one :) All are comfortable, only in the porcelain one my husband had to make deeper holes with an engraver, otherwise the needle would slip out :)

Today, the types of thimbles are amazingly diverse, and each has its own purpose. All you have to do is choose the one that suits you.

1. Thimble to protect your fingertips

Protects fingers during hand sewing, while quilting, and is also suitable for patchwork work. By dipping the thimble in hot water, you can give it the appropriate shape and size.

2. Silicone thimble

Provides good needle fixation when sewing from dense fabrics, as well as when stitching several layers of fabric. The thimble is comfortable to wear thanks to the holes and a special slot for the nail. Most often found on sale in packs of two pieces in sizes M and L.

3. LOVE thimble

This beautiful accessory is made with a floral pattern and a non-slip edge for better fixation of the needle while sewing. Available in sizes S, M and L.

4. Thimble-ring

Classic open thimble without top. This model is most suitable for pushing the needle sideways.

5. Adjustable thimble

If you have beautiful long nails, then this thimble is the perfect choice. It will provide maximum comfort while sewing and keep your nails in perfect condition.

The size of the thimble is adjusted by treating it with boiling water.

6. Thimble with fixing edge

Protects fingers while sewing, stitching and embroidering. The thimble is made of cast zinc. Available in five sizes from 14 to 18.

7. Ergonomic thimble

An innovative thimble that provides high comfort during use. Its base is made of soft plastic and the tip is made of hard plastic. Available in sizes S, M and L.

8. Leather thimble

Ideal for quilting and patchwork. Thanks to the elastic band on the outside, it perfectly adapts to any finger size and provides protection for the entire finger.

9. Classic golden thimble

Traditional model in gilded brass. Available in different sizes. Also available in silver color.

10. Anti-rotation thimble

It has a metal tip with a grooved surface. The base of the thimble is made of soft rubber. The model fits well on the finger and allows air to pass through thanks to its wavy shape. Available in different sizes.

Source and photo: Burda 5/2019

To the tools for handmade include hand needles, thimble, scissors, measuring tape. Accessories include pins, a cushion or magnetic pin holder, tailor's chalk, peg, rulers, ripper, etc. All tools must be kept in order, since the quality of the work performed depends on their condition.

Hand needles are the main tool for performing manual work, which is a metal rod, blunt at one end, pointed at the other. The blunt end has a hole for thread. The needle must be straight, polished, free of rust and dark spots, with an eye oval shape without burrs, of a size sufficient to thread the thread of the corresponding number into it. The needles are different in length, diameter, and have eyes of different sizes. Needles are selected depending on the type of product, the fabric being processed and the nature of the operation being performed.

Numbers and purposes of hand needles

Thimble designed to protect the finger from being pricked when pushing the needle into the tissue. The thimble is selected according to the size (thickness) of the middle finger of the right hand. Thimbles come with a bottom and without a bottom. By type, thimbles can be cone-shaped without a bottom, with a rim at the bottom, used for making outerwear; cone-shaped with a bottom, used in the manufacture light dress and linen; ring-shaped, worn in the manufacture of hats and fur products. On the surface of the thimble there are recesses arranged in a checkerboard pattern that prevent the needle from slipping and are necessary for resting the needle when piercing the fabric.

Thimble sizes by numbers

Scissors are used for cutting, trimming clothing parts and trimming thread ends. The blades of the scissors should be smooth, well polished, and free of burrs. Depending on the thickness of the materials and the nature of the work performed, scissors are selected by number.

Characteristics and purpose of scissors

Purpose	Characteristic	Image
Cutting and trimming heavy fabrics (coats, jeans, etc.)	Professional forged and polished cutting shears, made of Solingen steel, blade length 200 mm.
Cutting and trimming costume fabrics, trimming large parts of outerwear	The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel, blade length 260 mm. Self-sharpening scissors, laser-sharpened blades provide excellent quality cutting. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable.
Trimming parts from medium-thick fabric	The steel blade of the scissors, 230 mm long, remains sharp thanks to laser sharpening for a long time. The connecting unit is made of hardened steel. The tension of the blades can be adjusted using a screw fastening.
Cutting leather and other materials	The blades of the scissors are made of high-carbon stainless steel with a nickel coating to achieve high strength and maintain cutting ability for a long time. Blade length 228 mm.
Cutting and trimming fine wool, silk and cotton fabrics	Tailor's scissors with an increased angle of inclination and a blade length of 230 mm. The blades of the scissors are made of high-carbon stainless steel to achieve high strength and maintain cutting ability for a long time. The screw that adjusts the position of the blades relative to each other allows you to make adjustments as accurately and easily as possible.
Cutting lining and other crumbling materials	Blade length 210 mm. The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel. The scissors are self-sharpening and laser sharpened blades provide excellent cutting quality. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable.
Trimming seams, uneven parts, trimming thread ends	Blade length 140 mm. The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel. The scissors are self-sharpening and laser sharpened blades provide excellent cutting quality. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable.
Cut any type of material	Blade length 250 mm. Tailor's scissors are ideal for working with a variety of fabrics, including heavy materials. The blades are made of high quality stainless steel. Precise grinding down to the tips guarantees excellent cutting quality. Connecting the blades with a threaded screw prevents loosening. Handles with rubberized inserts are comfortable to use. The fingers have enough space, which allows you to work without fatigue.

To trim the ends of the threads, a special device is used - dividers.

The ripper is used for straightening after turning out the corners of sides, collars, flaps, straps and other parts, as well as for removing stitches for temporary purposes.

Centimeter tape- soft rubberized tape 150 cm long with centimeter and millimeter divisions applied along the entire length. Used for measuring figures, measuring fabrics and parts when cutting and processing products. During operation, the tape may stretch, so it is necessary to systematically check it with a rigid ruler. Measurements should be taken and cutting should be done one measuring tape at a time.

A mannequin is a replica of a human figure. Mannequins are produced for women, men and children in various sizes, lengths and thicknesses. They are used in the process of processing products, preparing them for fitting and to check the quality of finished products. For ease of use, mannequins are placed on stands so that its height can be adjusted.

Tailor's pins. In the manufacture of light clothing, tailor's pins are used for chopping off parts, clarifying design lines, when transferring lines from one part to another, when performing machine work without preliminary basting, basting or basting parts. Pins should be thin, sharp, well polished, 3...4 cm long.

Tailor's chalk is used for tracing patterns, drawing design lines, control marks and symbols during fittings. It is produced in the form of triangular, rectangular and rounded pressed tiles up to 7 cm in size, as well as in the form of markers and pencils for cutting materials. Chalk varies in composition, hardness and colors. Lines drawn with tailor's chalk disappear after the first wash of the product, even in the case of ordinary, non-self-disappearing chalk.
When using, the edges of the crayons are sharpened to 1...1.5 mm, the lines are chalked away from you. When drawing lines using a ruler, the chalk is held with its entire plane close to the ruler and perpendicular to the surface of the fabric.

Rulers, squares, patterns used in drawing drawings of clothing parts, as well as in cutting and manufacturing products.

Convenient leather thimble, from Samantha Brenneman:

I've been sewing since I was a kid, but I could never bring myself to use a traditional metal thimble. I avoided using it for years and became resigned to the discomfort of the needle.

I recently made a baby envelope that was almost entirely hand quilted. Pushing a small, thin needle through the envelope fabric and cotton batting to make all those little stitches really drove home how important such a small tool can be. I worked my way through my project using a standard metal thimble, but could never get used to it. So, I started looking for a thimble that would not only fit better, but would also be comfortable for long-term use during long needlework.

I tried several types of leather thimbles, similar to those often used by quilters (most are made of leather and fabric with a small metal plate in the tip). None of them fit completely: one fell apart; the other has stretched during use and become thin; another was made of patent leather, too slippery to hold a needle; and finally the last one was made of such thick leather that I even needed a metal plate, but I could not feel through it what I was doing when I sewed with it.

I even tried using the fingers of old gloves with a small piece of felt inserted inside to secure the fit. These makeshift thimbles were more suitable than most, but they wore out too quickly.

The right solution

In a burst of inspiration (or frustration), I decided to design my own perfect leather thimble that would meet all the features I liked: softness; elasticity of the skin for easier grip of the needle; a long “tail” above the fingertip to select a comfortable position and easily remove and put on the thimble; and a hard tip, beveled like a fingertip to push the needle through the fabric while protecting the finger.

If you have faced the same dilemma as me or you just want full set really easy to use thimbles, try my technique to make them yourself. You can make several thimbles in minutes. And it's not such a bad idea because you can take it with you wherever you sew. Plus, you'll always have a backup if one of them gets lost or wears out.

Start with a basic tube-tail pattern. It's a good size for my rather small finger, but you can easily make it bigger or smaller by cutting wider or at along the seam line (see below “How to make a thimble to your size”).

The wide V-shaped curve at the end provides a bevel at the end of the thimble. This beveled design ensures that the needle will hit the tip every time and won't slip off.

Thimble design

Most of my thimbles are made from soft pieces of pigskin that I have collected (3 square inches is usually more than enough, 1 inch = 2.54 cm). I also always used suede or old gloves - a wonderful fate for gloves that have lost their pair, but would be a shame to throw away.

The soft leather is very flexible and comfortable, but it has a tendency to stretch, so I make my thimbles a little tight to begin with. To compensate for such stretching in the future, on each thimble I make a small “strap” immediately after the first knuckle. The strap can be made from a small strip of leather or a piece of elastic cord and the fit should be fairly snug because it holds the thimble on your finger at a comfortable angle even when the leather is stretched.

The tip itself is a kind of sandwich of two layers of leather with a small circle of hard plastic between them. A dime (approximately 10-50 penny coin) is the most suitable template for cutting out these leather circles. I cut a plastic circle from packaging or milk cartons (flat ones are also convenient plastic caps), tracing the dime again, and then cutting off the extra 1/8 inch (about 3 mm) from the inside of the circle around the edge. Test the plastic to make sure the eye of the needle does not pierce it.

Most easy way To construct such a thimble, use both glue (Sobo or other white fabric glue) and stitching. A thin bead of glue is applied along the edges of the seam, acting as a tack, but stitching is necessary to hold the pieces together. I machine stitch the long tube (a regular needle works fine), but find it easier to stitch the tip to the thimble tube by hand using a leather needle and double thread or waxed thread.

After sewing the thimble, fill the tail section with scraps of soft cotton or leather, gluing them all together. This will strengthen the tail of the thimble, which is usually pulled when you take it on and off your finger.

Finally, I have a thimble that really protects my finger and is so comfortable that I often forget it's on my finger. It’s true, more than once I left my workshop, forgetting to take it off.

Thimble pattern

Copy the drawing onto a separate sheet of paper and print. The size is given in inches (1 inch is 2.54 cm)

How to make a thimble to your size

All you need for this quick project are a few scraps of leather, a piece of hard plastic (cut from a milk carton, for example), some glue and a random short piece of elastic cord.

To make a pattern

1. Trace the full-length pattern and refine its fit on the middle finger of your dominant hand, adding or decreasing along the top seam.

2. Use a coin as a template to cut out two leather circles for the tip. Trim the edge 1/8 inch (3 mm) for the plastic circle.

To stitch together

1. Glue the top seam together along the edge. Let dry, then hand or machine stitch using a 1/6 inch (4 mm) seam allowance.

2. Place the plastic tip between two leather circles. Glue the leather circles together at the edges (“sandwich”).

3. Glue your round “sandwich” to the tip of the thimble tail, lining up any mismatched edges. Let dry, then hand stitch in the round twice (use a leather needle) with a 1/6″ (4mm) seam allowance. Only stitch leather layers, not plastic. Achieve uniformity.

4. Place the thimble on your finger. Mark 2 1/4 inch (6 mm) dots on each side of the seam and just after the first top knuckle. Remove the thimble and cut small holes at each point.

5. Cut a small strip of leather measuring 1" (2.54cm) x 3/16" (5mm) for the belt. Push through the holes, pull, overlap and glue the ends together.

6. As an alternative, you can use an elastic belt. Cut 2 additional holes 1/2″ below the top holes. Insert a 2-inch piece of elastic cord through the holes, pull taut, overlap, and glue the ends together. remove excess cord. Close the cord by attaching a small piece of leather, gluing it on top in the shape of the cord.

7. Glue a piece of soft cotton or leather inside the tail area. Trim the remaining fabric around the edge of the thimble's tail.

Samantha Brenneman makes thimbles and sews in Bevin, Illinois, USA.

Photos: Sloane Howard, drawings: Christine Erickson.