How to sew synthetic padding together. Secrets of using padding polyester
It often happens that the width or length of the purchased filler is not enough and you need to increase it. How to do it right?
So, you have sewn a blanket, bought a filler for it, and during the assembly process it turns out that you do not have enough length or width. Or you have a lot of leftovers, quite large, which you would hate to throw away, but are not large enough, for example, for a pillowcase or a doll’s blanket. What should I do?
Under no circumstances should you throw anything away! We select pieces of the required size from the remaining filler. And we trim both edges using a roller knife, a mat and a ruler.
To avoid damaging the surface of the cutting mat, use the back of it. The one without markings.
We set the zigzag seam on the sewing machine. We set the length and width of the seam to maximum. We join two pieces of filler (the filler should not overlap each other) and sew the pieces together.
That's it! Now the filler can be used for its intended purpose!
This method is good for stitching cotton filling. If you have pieces of padding polyester, you can easily join them together using a thread and a needle. You need to sew two fabrics together so that the seam is not rough and thick. That's it!
Purchasing bedding is always associated with considerable costs, which for thrifty housewives is a blow to the family budget. The solution is to sew things yourself with your own hands. How to sew a plain, quilted or bonbon blanket is described below. The article also contains tips on how to determine the type of material, filler, and the principle of fabric calculation.
Types of DIY blankets
You can sew any item yourself if you rely on the recommendations of experienced craftswomen. Before you start sewing, you need to determine the type of future product as a whole, think about the front side, the back side, and the filling.
There are two types of blankets:
- Quilted products do not cake, the filling does not bunch up, but it is difficult to wash them because they are large, heavy, and bulky.
- Simple products consist of a cover and inner padding. Often the filling clumps together, spoiling the appearance, but washing is simplified since the inside can be removed.
Sewing the front side, depending on the technique, is the most energy-intensive process. This is especially acute when creating things in the patchwork style with your own hands. Products are assembled from small blanks, the standard sizes of which range from 10 by 10 cm to 30 by 30 cm and more. In prefabricated patchwork, the flaps are sewn together using the quilling technique, they are sewn onto the base.
Modular blankets differ from those created in the patchwork style in that the flaps are sewn together in the correct geometry. Blocks are square, rectangular, pentagonal. The process is labor-intensive, because sewing many blanks into a single fabric is not easy.
Denim synthetic blankets look original. They are practical, non-staining, but warm and durable. It is not recommended to quilt items made from denim fabric - this affects the appearance. Jeans items are taken for a picnic or a walk.
It takes a long time to sew blankets in the bonbon style on your own, but the result will please you, since the thing turns out to be warm and unusual. For children's blankets, natural fabrics in bright colors or with patterns are used.
How to calculate fabric
The amount of material for a bed and a duvet is calculated differently. In the first case, the wide side of the cut is equal to the sum of the width of the mattress, two heights, plus an allowance of 12.5 cm. The blanket will hang from the bed, overlapping the side.
On the long side, the value is calculated by adding the length of the mattress, its height, seam allowances and overlap of 7.5 cm. For products without assembled borders, add 10 cm to the width and 5 cm to the length.
The width of the down cover is equal to the sum of centimeters measured along the wide side of the mattress, 2.5 cm for allowances. The long side of the product is calculated according to the same principle - 2.5 cm is added to the length of the mattress. Sewing a blanket with your own hands is simplified by choosing easy master classes.
How to choose material
The blanket consists of three parts: top, bottom and insulation. For each component, the material chosen is different, but for the first two it can be the same. The front side is made of fabric that does not cause allergic reactions. In addition to being hypoallergenic, the material is chosen with high strength.
The upper part of walking blankets for newborns, camping, and summer cottage options is made from water-repellent raincoat fabrics. For winter products, the thinnest furniture upholstery is used.
The front side is made stronger than the lining, which increases the durability of the item as a whole.
The lower part is made of satin, cotton fiber, twill, and silk. Cotton fabric gets dirty quickly, has a low level of breathability, and does not last long, so it is used for children's summer blankets. Winter padding blankets are made from calico and flannel.
Satin, silk, twill are distinguished by their lightness, dirt-repellent properties, and good vapor permeability. The disadvantage of these fabrics is slipperiness. Some will enjoy sleeping under such a blanket, while others will toss and turn.
If these options are not suitable, then bamboo canvas is the only solution. It feels like cotton fabric, but has a higher level of wear resistance. The fabric does not cause allergies, is antistatic, and has high mechanical strength.
How to choose a filler
Synthetic fiber materials are used for insulation:
- holofiber;
- padding polyester;
- synthetic fluff;
- sheet synthetic winterizer, holofiber.
A synthetic winterizer blanket is lighter than the same thing made from holofiber, but tends to cake and lose its shape. These fillers quickly become damp, but are light, warm and harmless. They need to be quilted so that a blanket made of padding polyester or holofiber will last longer.
A fleece liner will make the product heavier and increase the price, but the item will be durable and warm. Fleece transmits moisture unevenly - more on the pile side than on the smooth side. The fleece fabric does not stretch or crawl.
Master class: how to sew a blanket on padding polyester
You can learn how to sew a bedspread by preparing:
- dark fabric for the bottom, bright for the top;
- strong floss threads;
- padding polyester;
- sewing machine;
- needle;
- scissors.
On a flat surface, roll out the padding polyester and colored fabric, cut around the perimeter to even out the edges.
Place a third one – dark – on top of two materials. The edges are aligned and trimmed. Secure the three-layer “pie” with pins.
Sew 2 long sides and 1 short side, leaving the opportunity to turn the product inside out. You should retreat 0.5 cm from the edge, as shown above.
Turn out the blanket.
On the fourth, unstitched side, you need to trim the padding polyester a little to make it shorter. Then fold the top fabric so that the edges of the padding polyester are hidden.
Sew all sides around the perimeter, retreating 0.5 cm. The photo shows how the seams are made from the front and back sides.
Now take a needle and thread 6 threads of floss into it.
Having threaded the needle twice in the center of the product, the edges of the thread are tied into two knots. The same actions are performed 8 more times. This is necessary so that the padding polyester blanket does not bunch up when washed.
This is what happened.
Master class: how to sew a fleece blanket
You can learn how to sew a blanket from fleece fabric by preparing:
- fleece;
- sewing machine;
- needle and thread.
The fleece fabric is folded in half.
The edges are aligned, the corners are rounded.
To prevent the layers from shifting, you can sew with a machine or baste.
Then they are thoroughly processed around the perimeter using machine stitching.
Despite the fact that I am a dressmaker and have never experienced a shortage of bedding, this topic suddenly became relevant to me.
Now I'll tell you why.
Our washing machines are able to gently wash and wring a blanket almost dry. And modern materials, in turn, make it possible to do this.
After all, you can’t wash a cotton or down blanket, right... And these blankets are being forced out of our lives by lighter, more comfortable, hygienic blankets, of which there are a great variety on sale for every taste and budget.
Why then sew a blanket with your own hands? - you say.
I'll tell you... how to sew - at the end of the article. 
I suddenly realized that the pile of duvet covers every week was annoying me:
take off and put on
wash-iron
stack - store
And each blanket needs its own duvet covers.
Isn’t it easier, I thought, to sew a couple of blankets (so that there is a change) and come with sheets and pillowcases.
I think this is brilliant! Both me and my family really enjoyed it!
This solves several problems at once. Duvet covers do not need to be ironed. And instead of stacks of duvet covers, you'll just have one more blanket to spare. It doesn't need to be ironed. I threw it in the machine, washed it, dried it, and folded it.
Regarding aesthetics. Personally, I like simple things. To do this, you just need to choose the right fabric - to suit your taste, to suit the interior, etc... But if for someone it is important that it has edgings, frills, frills, then this is a matter of technology. Even if you have to iron them, it’s still easier than struggling with the duvet cover.
Where should I put my “favorite” duvet covers? - you say.
And then everything is simple - turn them into blankets and your sets are ready!
I did my first experiment on a baby blanket when my little granddaughter was visiting me. By the way, this is especially convenient for children: if an incident occurs at night, you can simply wash the entire set along with the blanket.
Draw conclusions.
You probably won't agree with me right away, but the thought will stick in your head until it overcomes your habits.
In the meantime, I’ll show you how to sew a blanket with your own hands using the example of what I sewed for my 79-year-old mother.
Our blanket has finished dimensions of 145x195 cm
Here are the materials I needed:
satin - 3 meters,
holofiber or siliconized padding polyester (100 grams) - 4 meters,
threads
Equipment:
sewing machine,
scissors,
tailor's pins,
safety pins (those used to pull through elastic bands and laces),
long ruler
chalk,
measuring tape.
1. I recommend and insist that if you want to sew a really soulful soft light blanket, buy satin for the top of the blanket or use a not shabby, but pleasant to the touch, soft and also light duvet cover (just not the one that warped after the first wash)
Why satin? With its beautiful smooth surface, satin, thanks to its weave, is wear-resistant and easy to wrinkle. This is natural 100% cotton fabric.
2. Holofiber or padding polyester. If you buy 200 or 300 gram material, then one blanket length is enough for you. With 100 grams you will have to lay 2 layers, it’s more difficult, but better!
Note: if you perform your experiment on a duvet cover, then choose one that has a slit for tucking the blanket on one of the sides. A duvet cover with a shaped cutout in the middle will not work.
Is everything ready? You can start sewing your blanket!
I am glad that mine and his use in patchwork sewing found a response in the hearts of needlewomen.
This material has its supporters, as well as those who prefer to work with other fillers.
But if the choice of filler for a blanket or other patchwork product has settled on padding polyester, then it would be nice to take into account its features and know the intricacies of working with it.
- First of all, you need to make sure that none of your relatives, friends, or those to whom you are going to give your patchwork creation are allergic to it.
- For the patchwork top and back of your product, we use fabric with a dense weave of threads. So that the padding polyester is guaranteed to remain inside the product.
- We do not sew from padding polyester those things that will come into contact with hot objects - oven mitts, hot pads, etc.
- For patchwork products we use not very thick padding polyester. At least at first. Let its thickness be no more than 1-1.5 cm (grade 100 and 150, respectively).
- It is better to steam the synthetic winterizer with an iron to the other layers of the patchwork “pie”. That is, put it between the patchwork top and the back and lightly go over it with a hot iron and steam. The top layer of padding polyester will melt slightly and “stick” to the fabric. With this we immediately “kill two birds with one stone”: we will reduce the likelihood of padding polyester fibers coming out through the fabric and in small products we will be able to do without first chopping off the layers of the patchwork “pie” before stitching.
- Sintepon can be placed in the product in several layers - in some places - to give special splendor where it is needed according to the author's idea.
- The filling in the product can generally be made composite, from several layers of different materials, and the padding polyester can be placed in the middle of the “pie”. This way you won’t have to steam it, and you can “play” with the relief of the product while stitching.
- For reasons of practicality, for such products on which something is supposed to be placed later - table runners, placemats, decorative napkins - we use only steamed, and therefore flattened, padding polyester.
- Sintepon is good for sewing patchwork panels that will not be used as intensively, such as patchwork quilts.
So, during a discussion on my blog at the Crafts Fair, the idea of using steamed, that is, compacted with an iron, synthetic padding polyester as a dummy material when coming up with a shape for a bag was voiced. I don’t use this method myself, but perhaps someone will find it useful.
I used to use padding polyester when sewing insulated clothing. And to avoid tearing it in “strategic” places while wearing it, I folded it together with the lining and first machine-quilted it in small squares. And then this “sandwich” was connected to the main fabric of the product.
Either way, start sewing with what you have on hand. But don't limit yourself! Whenever possible, try different materials. Now there is a huge selection of them! It is not necessary to buy them all at once and for kilometers :). You can take a small section for testing. But only after trying this or that material in person can you form your own opinion about it. And most importantly, understand which filler is more suitable for which products.
To be continued...
Holofiber
The filling for toys can be different; environmentally friendly and safe materials are perfect: cotton wool, padding polyester, pieces of fabric, knitting threads, foam rubber.
Before turning the sewn toy inside out, cut the fabric in all corners and folds right up to the stitching, being careful not to damage it. And after that the parts are filled with stuffing.
In my experience, the best filler is holofiber. This toy turns out to be light, fluffy, holds its shape perfectly, and is easy to wash.
If the toy you are going to make will belong to a very small child, you can fill it with some kind of cereal: rice, buckwheat, corn or pea grains. It will bring the baby not only joyful and vivid impressions, but also benefits. This is explained by the fact that the baby, playing with this toy, receives light masses in his palms and fingers, which contributes to the development of fine motor skills. It is necessary to remember that the seams on such toys are very strong, and the decorations that are used are sewn very securely so that the baby cannot tear them off and swallow them.
(based on materials from the manufacturer’s website)
"Holofiber" is the best filler for creating a soft toy.
Safety, warmth, softness, durability, the possibility of ordinary washing, comfort of sensations - the main criteria that distinguish “Holofiber” from other materials used in the production of toys. The new generation filler TM “Holofiber” does NOT belong to the category of flammable.
The main properties of "Holofiber" taken into account by toy manufacturers:
*safety *quality *variety of densities (more than 800 varieties for toys of any style) *durability *practicality (easy to wash and clean)
"Holofiber" allows designers to use the most extraordinary visual means. Therefore, the toys turn out to be emotional, expressive, lively, and warm.
Back in 2007, at the Congress of Manufacturers of Children's Products, which took place as part of the international exhibition "Toy", the Termopol company presented the concept of a domestic inter-industry industry for creating products with safe polyester fillers of the latest generation "Holofiber" (soft toys, bedding, children's and teenage clothes, etc.).
A little about the “balls” TM “Holofiber” (filling for pillows, blankets, toys):
Products with “balls” TM “Holofiber” are completely hygienic and environmentally safe and hypoallergenic. There are no dust mites in it. Fungus and mold do not develop. It is recommended by doctors for patients suffering from allergies, as well as for infants with the possibility of use in direct contact with the skin (the “Trust in Textiles” sign - Oeko-Tex Standard 100 class 1 (Germany).
Extremely affordable. Pillows and blankets with such filling are several times cheaper than down and feather and wool, but are not inferior to them in terms of basic consumer properties.
“Balls” TM “Holofiber” are extremely practical. Facts of 12 years of operation of products with “balls” TM “Holofiber” were noted, despite the fact that the manufacturer’s recommended period of use is 6-7 times less. In general, it is worth noting that the “balls” were originally conceived as a filler for disposable hotel and hospital bedding. But time has proven the practicality and high performance characteristics of the Holofiber NM for “...use without restrictions.” Sintepon. What is synthetic winterizer? What is he like?
Sintepon(colloquially sintipon or sentipon, sintepon or cintepon) is a voluminous, elastic, light and soft non-woven material made from 100% synthetic (polyester) fibers, sometimes with the addition of natural fibers: wool and cotton. It is also called synthetic batting or synthetic fluff.
The advantages of synthetic winterizer are lightness, good heat-protective properties and low weight, as well as relative harmlessness to humans. However, some types of padding polyester can emit harmful substances, the use of which is justified by the adhesive (emulsion) connection of the fibers.
According to the method of connecting fibers, synthetic winterizer is divided into three large groups:
1. Glued (emulsion) padding polyesters;
2. Needle-punched padding polyester;
3. Thermally bonded padding polyesters.
In glued padding polyester the connection between the fibers is fixed using a special glue. Using adhesive technology, the padding polyester looks loose and fluffy.
Needle-punched padding polyester obtained by weaving fibers mechanically with additional fixation of multidirectional fibers with jagged needles. After processing, the fibers of the outer layers are partially intertwined. Due to the partial mutual fixation of the threads, such padding polyester tolerates washing better and is less susceptible to blowing.
Fibers thermally bonded padding polyester bond under the influence of elevated temperatures. This synthetic padding polyester has excellent heat-protective properties and is light in weight; moreover, it does not lose quality as a result of being crushed or washed. Due to this, thermally bonded synthetic winterizer is called Euro synthetic winterizer.
Sintepon is a fabric consisting of several layers located parallel to each other, the individual fibers of which are predominantly oriented in one direction, which is due to the traditional production method.
Sintepon is widely used in the light industry of nonwoven materials. Sintepon differs in density and scope: it is used in the production of upholstered furniture, insulated outerwear, etc.
Sintepon is a classic material for furniture production. When using this material, the furniture becomes very soft, and you can achieve a fairly beautiful shape of the product. During the furniture production process, the material is used as a basis for upholstery.
Due to low migration of fibers and high thermal insulation, synthetic winterizer is successfully used in the clothing industry for the manufacture of outerwear.
Sintepon as insulation is a suitable basis for bedding, home textiles (blankets, pillows and mattresses), decorative items, as well as travel equipment and workwear. The padding polyester lining will perfectly protect you from cold and wind in any weather, since the padding polyester insulation retains heat well and restores its shape.
Sintepon can be used for stuffing soft toys, for sewing fluffy soft toys: snowmen, snowmen, snowballs, snowflakes. You can also sew toy parts from padding polyester: paw pads, muzzles, tails.
Synthetic winterizer with the addition of natural fibers is ideal for use in quilted mattress covers and quilted bedspreads.
In recent years, padding polyester has begun to be made from recycled materials or melted plastic waste (PET bottles, bags, disposable tableware, etc.). Syntepons are used for all types of insulated clothing, including children's, as well as for the manufacture of blankets, bedspreads, sleeping and bivouac bags and other textile products.
Cheap and not always high-quality padding polyesters are used today for all types of insulated clothing, including children's, as well as for the manufacture of blankets, bedspreads and other textile products for the home. But the cheapness of the material, alas, is a “guarantee” of low quality of the final product and a limited service life.
When making padding polyester, the so-called “overdose” is often “allowed”. What is this? It’s very simple - to give the padding polyester more elasticity, it is “sprayed” with latex glue, in common parlance PVA. The elasticity achieved technologically in this way is obviously temporary. The very first wash, even at a temperature of about 30-40 degrees, washes out the emulsion: the synthetic winterizer “crumbles”.
Holofiber can serve as an excellent alternative to padding polyester.
Synthetic winterizer and products made from synthetic winterizer should only be hand washed in warm water at a temperature of no more than 40C. It is recommended to wring out the padding polyester without twisting it. To dry a padding polyester product, you need to lay it out on a flat surface.
The article is written based on the following resources:
http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki
http://www.textil-profi.ru
http://www.hollowfiber.ru
http://www.cintepona.net/
VATA. Application of cotton wool.
cotton wool- this is a fluffy mass of fibers, loosely intertwined in different directions.
Cotton products used at home are made from 100% natural cotton fibers, which guarantees high quality products. As a rule, it is bleached without chlorine.
Cotton wool products have found application not only as simple cotton wool, but also in the form of various products. Such products include cotton pads, cotton buds and cotton balls.
It is also possible to use cotton wool in the manufacture of various crafts, for gaskets soft toys when sewing them with your own hands.
By method of receipt cotton wool is distinguished:
- natural: wool, silk, down, cotton, linen, hemp, pine, asbestos;
-artificial: cellulose, glass, metal, slag, basalt.
Natural wool According to their intended purpose, they are divided into clothing, furniture, technical (thermal insulation, fire-resistant, etc.), cushioning, glued sheet and medical.
When making cotton wool, the raw materials are split, loosened and cleared of impurities, the resulting fibrous mass is formed into so-called canvases on the machines of a loosening and scattering unit. The shapeless mass of fiber that makes up the canvas is transformed on a carding machine into cotton wool of a certain thickness.
When producing medical wool, the raw materials are boiled in alkali under pressure and then treated with sodium hyposulfite. As a result, the fiber acquires whiteness and characteristic properties - the ability to quickly wet and absorb liquids.
There are hygroscopic and compressed medical cotton wool.
Absorbent cotton wool is white, easily exfoliates, and is used as a material that absorbs liquid secretions when dressing wounds over layers of dressing gauze.
Compress cotton wool serves to warm a tied or bandaged part of the body (for example, with warming compresses), and also as a soft lining when applying immobilizing bandages (for example, plaster).
Artificial wool widely used in construction as a heat and sound insulating material; in the chemical industry - for filtering liquids and gases.
A special type of cotton wool - the so-called vatilin, that is, cotton wool glued on one or both sides with an adhesive emulsion. Vatilin is a substitute for cotton wool when sewing clothes, cushioning material, etc.
Types of seams in needlework
Sewing Basics
Learning to use a needle is the same as learning to hold a spoon, pencil, or brush. When you start sewing, you make stitches on the fabric - it creates a seam. There are different seams: connecting seams - they connect two parts of fabric together; fastening, which is used to hem the fabric, seal the edges so that the edge of the fabric does not crumble, and finishing. The latter serve both for connection and fastening, as well as for decorating the product.
Now let's get acquainted with the seams that will be useful when creating toys.
Seam "forward needle" (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3) - the simplest, but at the same time the most necessary for any sewing work.
It is a series of stitches and passes of the same length. It is done like this:
You need to secure the thread at the right edge of the fabric, making a 5mm stitch. After securing the thread, insert the needle into the second puncture point and pull it along with the loop to the wrong side. After skipping 5mm, prick the needle out to the front side and make a second stitch, etc.
Seam stitches and gaps should be made of the same length and placed in the direction from right to left.
On the wrong side of the fabric, stitches of the same length will be placed between the knit stitches. The stitch length can be different, not just 5mm.
The stitches of this seam can be placed in two or more rows, thus creating a pattern. To speed up the work, you can put several stitches on the needle at once, then pull the thread through them.
Loop stitch(sometimes called an edge seam, because it is used to sew the edge of the fabric) - loop stitches of a buttonhole seam should be made from left to right, positioning them perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.
Place the edge of the fabric on the index finger of your left hand and hold it with your thumb. Having made the first stitch on the fabric, move the needle towards you and lay the thread down, to the right and up from it, that is, in a loop. Insert the needle into the fabric, stepping back from the first stitch to the right, and stitch along the wrong side from top to bottom so that the loop of thread remains under the needle. Tighten the thread, make a third stitch, and so on. Seam stitches can be of different lengths.
Blind seam
- used when the product is almost ready and you need to carefully sew up the holes left for turning and filling with stuffing, or connect ready-made parts.
First, a puncture is made on the wrong side of the fabric and the needle is pulled to the front side of one of the parts. Next, along the front side of the other part, one stitch of the “forward needle” seam is made, then the same stitch is made on the first part and the thread is tightened well. The stitches should be small. This is how you need to sew the entire seam, and at the end make a knot (a strong tack).
After this, do not rush to cut the thread, use this little trick. To prevent the knot from unraveling over time, pass the needle through the body or any other part and cut the thread at the puncture point.
Nodules- It is unacceptable to leave knots on the fabric. To avoid them, you need to make a small stitch on the fabric and pull the thread until a small tip of the thread remains in the form of a loop. Thread a needle and working thread into this loop and tighten it. Or you can just make a few small stitches in one place. By the way, they also fasten (preferably on the wrong side of the fabric) the thread, finishing the work.
Useful, interesting - working thread is the thread used to sew or embroider.
While working, you need to make sure that the stitches are the same length and do not pull the fabric.
Particular attention should be paid to the left side of the embroidery (that is, the wrong side) - do not make knots and do not leave thread ends; during long transitions, hide the working thread under the embroidery.