How to sew a warm jacket with your own hands. How to sew a winter jacket

You will need

• - pattern;
• - scissors;
• - sewing machine;
• - threads and needles;
• - jacket fabric;
• - insulation;
• - lining;
• - strip of fur;
• - dense edging;
• - elastic cord with tips;
• - buttons and tongs (or press) for riveting them;
• - three detachable zippers.

Instructions

Choose a simple and practical pattern. You can use a ready-made pattern from a sewing manual as a basis, or use old clothes and open them along the inside seam. Carefully calculate the size, not forgetting about the loose fit - after all, you will be wearing the product over a thick sweater.

It is recommended to make the following cut details: - large: left and right shelves; back; a pair of shelf yokes; back yoke; left and right sleeves; hood (middle, sides and facing); - small (they can be cut out from leftover material): patch pockets; double stand-up collar; valves on the hood and sleeves; double zipper strip; a pair of facings on the sleeves and hems. Clothes from these parts can be made for children and adults of any gender; it is enough to adjust the length, color and, if necessary, make a drawstring at the waist.

Choose suitable materials for sewing a winter jacket. You will need facing and lining material. A piece of thick polyester is good as an outer fabric; for the lining (including the lower collar), you can take fleece fabric. Depending on the desired thickness of the codend, select the number of layers of sealant. It is good to decorate the hood with an edge made of a strip of natural or faux fur.

Cut out the details of the cut - the “face” of the jacket, lining and warm filling. Next, you need to apply one layer of insulation to each cut part and sew it with a regular horizontal stitch with long stitches. Attach other warm layers (from two to four) with a large mesh to the lining.

Sew the pockets to the front of the jacket. To do this, sew leaves onto the back of the burlap. For volume, a thin layer of insulation can be placed inside the drowning leaf. Sew both parts of the patch pocket to the front of the product; You can also put a thick piping along the seam - this will look more professional. Use it to treat the lower edge of the sleeves.

Complete the main connecting seams of the product and proceed to small, but important details. To ensure that the jacket provides good protection from the wind, sew flaps on the hood and sleeves. Rivet metal buttons onto them. If you do not have a special punch press for rivets and eyelets, buy special pliers for installing such fasteners in the sewing accessories department.

Work carefully: make a hole in the jacket fabric with a smaller diameter than the button; Press the parts of the fittings accurately and try not to damage the front part. To do this, before squeezing the button, you can put a piece of thin rubber (for example, a plumbing gasket).

Sew a detachable zipper onto

We see the same thing in the clothing industry: raincoats with a detachable lining, trousers that “with a slight movement of the hand turn into elegant shorts.”

We offer you a double-sided demi-season jacket, which with some skill is not difficult DIY at home. The advantages are obvious: you can give free rein to your own imagination and save not only money, but also space in your wardrobe.

So, two-way jacket It is remarkable in that it does not have a reverse side, both of its sides are front. When you decide to sew such a thing, you should remember a few simple rules when choosing fabric:
— the fabric must be non-shedding;
- for both sides it is better to choose a fabric of the same composition, which will give the same shrinkage. Or choose synthetics, which practically “do not shrink”;
— the canvases you choose must match each other in color and pattern.

For demi-season jacket raincoat fabric, jacket fabrics with water-repellent impregnation, ordinary blended fabrics containing cotton and even satin. A padding polyester with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm is ideal as insulation. It is irrational to use a thicker padding polyester: it is more difficult to work with, and your jacket is still actually two-layered.

Before cutting, the fabric must be decatted (soaked briefly in warm water or ironed through damp gauze). The method of decating depends on the type of fabric.

Next, cut out the product. The choice of style is at your discretion. The only thing that should be taken into account is a minimum of undercuts and raised seams. After all, all the details will have to be quilted, and the abundance of darts can significantly complicate the task. When cutting, increase seam allowances to 2-3 cm. This is a necessary precaution. Quilted parts may be slightly reduced in linear dimensions due to “thickening”.

Once you've finished cutting, start quilting the pieces. Here your imagination can also run wild. Especially if you are the happy owner of an ultra-modern sewing machine, which always has several types of figured stitches in its arsenal. If the capabilities of your machine are more modest, simply mark two perpendicular lines with chalk on the front side of the part, install a foot with a limit ruler on the machine, connect the fabric and padding polyester parts with pins for convenience and sew along the front side, combining each previous line with the limit ruler (so you will get strictly parallel lines). To get a smooth surface, alternate parallel and perpendicular stitches. And one more tip: for the product to look better, the direction and angle of the “quilting” machine lines on paired parts should be a “mirror image”. To do this, simply connect the paired parts with the right sides facing inward and pat with your palm so that the chalk mark appears on the second part. When all the parts are quilted, check each of them again with the pattern, trim off the excess.

Now you can proceed to the actual work. Everything here follows the traditional pattern: sew down the darts (if any), shoulder and side seams, assemble and sew in the sleeves and hoods. By the way, to the bottom of the hood on one side you can sew a small pocket with a zipper, inside which you can hide a loop for a hanger. For strength, the loop is attached to the seam connecting the hood to the back.

Pockets. In this case, it is better to choose pockets with patches and attach them to one (conditionally front) side. It is quite possible to do without a second pair of pockets, so as not to visually increase the hip area. For each pocket you will need 2 parts made from the main fabric and 1 part from some kind of cushioning material (non-adhesive can be used). Padding is a must if you want the pocket to keep its shape and not hang like a shapeless string bag. Place a spacer piece between the main parts, fold the parts with the wrong sides inward, pin them together and quilt them. Finish the edges of the pockets around the perimeter with bias tape, and then stitch them to the shelves.

So, both parts of the jacket are ready. You can proceed to the final stage. Connect both halves with the wrong sides inward, turning the sleeves to one side. The edges of the jacket are pinned along the perimeter with tailor's pins and stitched at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge (this is a rough stitch, it is needed to make it more convenient to sew on the bias tape). Finish the edges of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeves with bias tape in one or two lines (if you lack experience). Next, mark, sweep and cut the loops. By the way,

Something insanely complex, then believe me, you were wrong. In our time, and even more so with our prices, this skill will come in very handy. It will be enough just to know the basic principles of sewing, to have the desire and patience, so that sewing a jacket does not cause you great difficulties.

The truth about tailoring jackets

Sewing outerwear is likely to interest almost every woman who loves to sew. Naturally, if you are taking on this matter for the first time, it will seem to you that it is very difficult. But believe me, this is only the first impression. So feel free to take on this task - you will succeed.

Think about the fact that with this product you won’t have to worry too much about gluing small parts, and if suddenly there are any minor flaws, they can easily be hidden under the lining.

Each modern woman In the wardrobe you can find all sorts of different jackets, raincoats and fur coats. And every fashionista does not miss the chance to pamper herself with something new.
But why not stop spending extra money on expensive purchases, and just ask yourself how to sew a jacket.

Moreover, it is worth noting that you do not need to have any special knowledge or extensive experience in sewing things. Actually the secret is simple. The most important thing in sewing a jacket is to follow the rules and make the pattern clearly and correctly, taking into account your size.

You will also need to decide on the main material from which you want to sew your jacket, as well as prepare other fabrics and accessories, such as padding polyester, lining, various zippers and fasteners, suitable for sewing needles and threads.

After this, all that remains is to decide on the style of your future jacket. After you have finally decided and weighed everything, following the recommendations, you can start sewing your new thing, and then you will definitely succeed.

Sewing technology and secrets

Believe me, there is nothing to be afraid of here. The first thing that frightens any person is the simple and banal unknown, but it’s worth seeing the detailed step by step instructions the entire work process to understand: in fact, nothing is simpler.

It is also important to decide what kind of fittings you need. If you are planning to sew a sports-style jacket, then the fastener in is best suited for you. If suddenly it is not possible to get a zipper, replace it with buttons. And if you don’t have access to them, then take buttons.

Jackets for women, their types and features

First of all, decide what exactly you want. After all, all the jackets are so different, each is unique and beautiful in its own way. In every fashionista’s wardrobe, as a rule, you can find more than one, not two, or even five jackets and fur coats of different styles and tailoring. And no matter how many there are, each of them means something and is intended for a special occasion. In any case, you definitely cannot call any of them superfluous.

Light jackets

Now let's look at an example of how to sew a light jacket.

You will need the following materials:
- Raincoat fabric.
- Non-woven fabric.
- Zipper 60 cm.
- Buttons.
- Threads.
- Sewing machine.

How to sew a jacket? We start the process by sewing the lining. To begin, we sew the shelves with the edges. Then we sew the side parts to the center of the shelves. Afterwards you need to sew up the darts. Sew the side sections and shoulders. Carefully sew on the sleeves.

Jacket top: sew the center of the shelves and the side parts. We sew up the darts. Why do we sew the shoulder parts, the sides of the front and the back. Then we sew in the sleeves.

Jacket collar: You need to measure your neck size. The size of the finished collar should be 6 cm. Depending on the size of the neck, you need to cut a strip of fabric of such a size that the finished part is 6 cm. But do not forget to add 1 cm to the seams.

In order to sew a zipper, use a gel pen or chalk to mark the place on the right and left sides of the jacket. And carefully sew it on.

Jacket pocket: cut out a pocket for our jacket in the shape you want. We cut out the lining in the same shape. We connect both parts. Sew a finishing seam of about 1 cm along the top of the pocket. Carefully mark with chalk on the shelf the place where you will sew it. Then we carefully adjust it.

Belt: We cut out a strip of fabric 9 cm wide. We put interlining on the upper part of the belt, bend it lengthwise and iron it with an iron. We bend the edges inward and sew with a finishing seam.

Assembling the jacket: You need to sew on the lining starting from the sleeves. Bottom to bottom. And so on, carefully and evenly every detail.

Sew the collar to the neck. Spreading the finishing seam along the collar and front. We do the same at the bottom of the sleeves. We fold the bottom of the jacket and also carefully hem it.

Our jacket is ready. Now you know everything about how to sew a jacket.

Warm jackets

The most famous type of insulation in the world is synthetic winterizer. This material is easy to work with, easy to find in any store, and also has a reasonable price. But still it has its drawbacks. At low temperatures it loses its thermal properties and deteriorates from hot iron and steam. It also loses thickness over time, especially after washing.

Let's look at how to properly sew a product with insulation using the example of sewing a jacket for a boy.

Jackets for children

It’s also easy to make a jacket for your child. So, let's figure out how to sew a jacket for a boy with your own hands.

To do this you will need:
- Fabric for a jacket.
- Lining.
- Lightning.
-
- Threads.
- Paper for patterns.

When cutting out the parts, do not forget to leave 1 cm for the seams. Transfer the pattern onto paper.

From the fabric for the jacket and from the lining we cut out the following details:

• Back - 1 pc.
• Before - 2 pcs.
• Sleeve - 2 pcs.
• Hood - 2 pcs.

Sewing a jacket

We connect the back and sleeves. Using the main jacket fabric, we sew together the sides and sleeves. We do the same actions with the lining.

On the back of the jacket we mark the middle. We connect the seam of the hood to the middle back. We put a lining inside the hood. On the front parts there will need to be an allowance of 1 cm wide for sewing in a zipper. Carefully fold the remaining edges at the bottom of the zipper.

We fold the rubber cuffs in half and sew them in the same way as the hood.

After this, carefully attach the zipper, while retreating 3 cm from the bottom of the jacket.
All that remains is to carefully hem the bottom of our jacket. The product is ready.

Leather jackets

Let's learn how to sew a leather jacket.

Many people think that a leather jacket is a terribly difficult task. But if you set a goal and approach this issue as correctly as possible, then there are really no difficulties in this.

If you have basic sewing skills and know how to work with patterns, then perhaps it's time to try something new. Working with leather has its own characteristics:

Under no circumstances should leather fabric be basted with a needle, as the puncture points with the needle will remain forever.

In order to fasten two parts together, you can use superglue or different clamps.

When working with patterns, you need to take into account the density of the leather. If it is too soft, then you need to leave more space for the seams.

How to sew a jacket with your own hands

When all the patterns have been transferred to paper, all the nuances have been taken into account and finalized, you can try to start sewing. Try to lay out the patterns on the fabric as economically as possible. Use chalk to outline all the details. This can be done both from the wrong side and from the front side. Since our material is very soft and easy to stretch, all details must be duplicated with a special fabric - dublerin. It can be bought at any specialized store. To give the leather additional volume, glue the leather with foam rubber in the places you need and carefully sew.

As carefully as possible, connect all the parts of the jacket. Sew on the sleeves and collar.
We cut out the same parts from the lining fabric as from the main one. We connect all the lining parts. Then very carefully sew the lining fabric to the main product. It's better to start with the sleeves. Then along the bottom of the jacket, then the front and neck. This is how easy it is to sew a jacket with your own hands.

Winter jackets

If you want a jacket made of padding polyester, the question you need to decide is: what material to choose for sewing? Basically, such products are made from artificial leather or raincoat fabric. There is, of course, a difference in price, so first decide how much you are willing to spend on fabric.

Once you have chosen your fabric, you can get to work. So, how to sew a jacket using padding polyester with your own hands?

For this jacket you will need:
- faux leather- 2.5 m.
- fabric for lining - 2.2 m.
- padding polyester 200 - 2.5 m.
- raincoat fabric - 1 m.
- zipper 80 cm long.
- standard zippers for pockets - 2 pcs.

How to sew a jacket on padding polyester

We transfer the sample pattern onto paper. Then we cut out the details of our product from insulation and main fabric. All parts are connected to each other with pins, taking into account the places for the seams.

You quilt each detail along the marking lines, marking them in advance on the front side of the fabric. For this, of course, would be better suited artificial leather, because by making marks on the front side, they can be easily washed off later. If you are working with another fabric and cannot make marks on the face, then do it from the wrong side of the fabric, then baste it, and only then stitch it together with the padding polyester.

To make the side pockets of the jacket you will need:
- 2 pocket pieces each from the main fabric, lining and insulation (and you need to take only half of the insulation layer, i.e. carefully divide the padding polyester layer into 2 equal thicknesses by hand).
- 2 pieces of strip (to add volume) from the main and from the lining fabric.

For each piece, do not forget to leave room for an allowance of 1.5 cm.

We quilt and then sew the strip parts to the insulation pockets. We do the same actions with the details of the stripes and pockets made of lining fabric. We connect the pocket parts from the lining and the main fabric with the right sides and sew them together. Turn out the finished pockets through the cut.

We sew the finished pockets to our jacket, bending the edges in order to hide the lining.

We carefully connect and sew together all the prepared and pre-quilted parts of our product.

Sewing a hood

We cut out the details of the hood from black raincoat fabric and sew them together. For the inside of the hood, we cut in the same parts from a different fabric and carefully sew them into the middle of the hood, then turn them inside out. We attach both lower parts of our hood to the middle of the neck of the jacket.

We cut out the parts for the bottom of our jacket and facing. We connect them right sides to the bottom of the jacket and sew them on.

For a hanger loop, you need to cut a piece of fabric in the form of a 1x8 cm strip. Of course, you can buy a finished piece, for example, in the form of a chain.

We sew it in the middle while connecting the facing and edging parts.

In order to sew a zipper into the product, we apply our zipper to the left and right parts of our jacket face to face and carefully stitch them. Before applying the zipper, step back 1 cm from the bottom of the jacket. This is done so that the finished product does not stick out at the bottom due to the fastener.

In the same way, carefully sew together the lining parts of our jacket. Sew on the lining, starting from the bottom of the jacket. Then we sew the sleeves from the main fabric and lining and connect them to the jacket.

Now the jacket is ready.

Demi-season jackets

It would also be useful to learn how to sew a jacket for spring with your own hands.

With the onset of warm days, you want to take off your heavy fur coats and jackets and put on light, spring ones. If you are tired of your old things, you can try to make such a jacket yourself.

To work you will need:

Skin substitute;

Sintepon;

Lining fabric;

Zip fastener;

Short zippers for pockets.

We transfer the pattern samples onto paper. Then carefully draw it onto the fabric and cut it out.

Parts List:

Back - 2 children. middle part, 2 children. sides, 1 child. cut with a fold;

Shelves - 2 children. sides, 2 children. middle part, 2 children. central part, 2 children. planks;

Collar.

We connect the parts of the back of the jacket with pins, then carefully stitch and iron.

In the same way, we baste or connect with pins the parts of the middle part of the shelves with the side ones and also stitch them.

Baste the parts of the shelf strip together and sew them together. Then process the darts and iron towards the center.

Then alternately connect the parts from the lining and the main fabric.
We prepare and cut it out of fabric. We connect and sew the parts of the stand, sewing a collar between them.

Then we sew together the parts of the finished product from the lining and from the main fabric. We do the same with the sleeve parts and carefully sew them into the middle of the jacket.

The patterns will tell you in more detail how to sew a jacket with your own hands.

Everyone knows that all good things come to an end. And no matter how much we love warm summer days, they will definitely be followed by cold autumn and winter evenings. With the onset of cold weather, we have to spend money on warm jackets and raincoats. But why not try to make such products yourself? Moreover, it is not as difficult as some people think. All you need for this is to have at least the slightest knowledge of the features of the cut.

Examples of patterns

Let's look at the most common patterns for autumn and winter jackets. Here's an example of how to sew a jacket using photo patterns.

You don't have to waste money on expensive fashion magazines. All you need to do is start your own collection of patterns and pamper yourself with new things whenever you want.

When you think about sewing outerwear with your own hands, the main criterion for you is the quality and style of the product. You won’t be able to sew such a thing yourself (“out of your head”). So you will first have to stock up on patterns. If you spend your time and effort on the work, you will succeed in everything. And you can proudly boast to your friends that this is your job.

Russian size	Bust	Waist circumference	Hip circumference
size 40, height 168 cm	80	62	86	Payment for goods Buy
size 42, height 168 cm	84	65	92	Payment for goods Buy comment = "42 female"
size 50, height 168 cm	100	82	108	Payment for goods Buy
size 52, height 168 cm	104	85	112	Payment for goods Buy
size 54, height 168 cm	108	88	116	Payment for goods Buy
size 58, height 168 cm	116	97	124	Payment for goods Buy
size 60, height 168 cm	120	101	128	Payment for goods Buy

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to your specified email. If the file has not arrived within 30 minutes, then you need to send. No need to pay again!

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Pattern contents:

The quilted jacket fits well thanks to front and back reliefs. The originality of the model lies in the technically well-thought-out oblique shelf with a strip covering the zipper. The collar is a high stand-up collar that serves as an excellent alternative to a scarf in windy weather.

Difficulty level - above average. Practical skills and experience in sewing are required.

Pattern measurements sample sizes (measurements of unpublished sizes are determined as the arithmetic mean between adjacent sizes):

To sew a quilted jacket, prepare necessary materials:
. jacket or raincoat fabric;
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 150 g/sq. m (thickness 1.5-2 cm);
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 100 g/sq. m (thickness 1-1.5 cm);
. tractor detachable zipper - 1 pc.;
. interlining for duplication;
. snap buttons or Velcro;
. lining fabric.

Clarifications: different densities of padding polyester require distribution of seam density and freedom of movement. On the details of the sleeves and collar, you need to quilt the fabric with a padding polyester of lower density.

To make a practical fastener, take a high-quality tractor or spiral zipper. For the lining, you can choose a fabric of your choice: fleece, quilted insulated lining, viscose, polyester.

Please note important point! Assess the real possibilities of your sewing machine. Not every stationary unit can adequately handle stitching fabric on thick synthetic padding. Pay attention to the ready-made jacket fabrics; you may be able to immediately buy ready-made quilted fabric. Then for the leaf you need to choose an unquilted material to match the main one.

Stitch

Let's immediately deal with the most important starting point. The stitch can be done on a whole fabric or on separate parts. The main fabric is laid over the padding polyester so that its edges protrude a few cm around the perimeter. This is difficult, since it is necessary to paint the surface with precise lines at equal distances.

The second method is easier. The cut parts must be laid out on padding polyester, secured with pins and sewn perpendicular lines, periodically checking the coincidence of the stripes on adjacent cut parts. The quilted parts should be stitched around the perimeter and cut out, leaving a small padding pad gap - approximately 0.5-1 cm.

Uncover

From the main fabric:
- central part of the back - 1 child. with fold;
- back side - 2 parts;
- shelf side - 2 pieces;
- the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 piece;
- the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 piece;
- cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted dot) - 1 piece;
- bar - 1 child. with fold;
- collar - 2 children. with fold;
- sleeve - 2 parts;
- folded leaflet - 2 pieces;
- burlap - 2 pieces;

From padding polyester:
. central part of the back - 1 child. with fold;
. back flank - 2 parts;
. shelf side - 2 pieces;
. the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 piece;
. the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 piece;
. cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted dot) - 1 piece;
. bar - 1 child. with a fold (from thin padding polyester);
. collar - 2 pieces. with a fold (from thin padding polyester);
. sleeve - 2 pieces. (from thin padding polyester);
. leaf with fold - 2 children. (from thin padding polyester).

From the lining:

The central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold (+ 2 cm away from the fold for an oncoming fold - for a loose fit along the back);
- back side - 2 parts;
- shelf side - 2 pieces;
- the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 2 parts;
- sleeve - 2 parts;
- burlap - 2 pieces;

When cutting out parts, do not forget to add seam allowances and mark notches to ensure proper alignment of the parts. Allowances for raised seams, neckline, armhole - 1 cm, side allowances - 1.5 cm, placket and front center cut - 1 cm, lower cuts of back and front, as well as sleeves - 3 cm. Immediately mark the location of pockets in raised seams . Duplicate the leaves.

Operating procedure

1. Stitching parts. How to do this is described at the beginning of the article in the thematic section.
2. Sew the center and side back pieces separately from the main fabric and separately from the lining. Immediately place a central fold on the lining and secure. Then do the same with the sleeves. Put the finished parts aside and proceed to the next operation.
3. Pockets. Sew the side seams of the leaf and iron using steam. Take burlap from the main and lining fabric. Align the fabric burlap with the notches on the relief cut of the side of the shelf, placing the piece face to face. Sew on 0.9 cm. Turn the seam towards the burlap, and secure with a finishing stitch at 0.1 cm. Place the finished leaf with an open cut on the front side of the central part of the shelf, sew on 0.9 cm. Place the burlap on top, sew the seam into the seam , turn the burlap towards the shelf, secure it, and perform the finishing stitch. Stitch the burlap sections and iron using the steam function.
4. Sew the raised seams of the side and central parts of the front from the main fabric. Repeat the operation with the lining parts. Make notches, not reaching 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam. Perform an OBE.
5. Duplicate the strip with non-woven fabric. Fold it in half, right sides facing in, and topstitch the top and bottom edges. Cut the allowances to 0.2-0.3 cm. Turn the strip inside out, straighten the corners and stitch the open edge with a straight stitch of 0.5 cm. Sew the finished strip into the bias half of the shelf.
6. Sew the shoulder seams separately on the main fabric and lining pieces.
7. Sew in sleeves from the main fabric, aligning the control notches and evenly distributing the piping along the armhole. Repeat the operation with the lining parts.
8. Lightning. Sew one half of the zipper to the cut part of the half zipper, folding the tape face to face on the cut side. Sew the second part to the other half of the shelf.
9. Sew the strip to the beveled edge of the shelf, and with it a simulated “edging”, that is, cut it to the half-skid line with a zipper on the second side. Give a finishing stitch along the cut piece.
10. Sew the parts of the shelf with the lining. Give a finishing stitch along the zipper.
11. Sew the top edge of the collar and press the seam. Then sew the side sections together, folding the collar face to face. Trim the allowances. Iron the collar using steam, then sew into the neckline. Perform an OBE.
12. Turn the garment inside out and slightly open the seam of one sleeve on the lining. Sew the bottom edges of the sleeves of the main fabric and the lining. Fold and hem with blind stitches. Iron.
13. Turn the jacket inside out and machine stitch the bottom edge of the lining and jacket together. Secure the hem with blind stitches.
14. Turn the jacket inside out through the sleeve and stitch up the ripped area by 0.1-0.2 cm.
15. Sew Velcro or insert buttons to secure the oblique part of the shelf. The jacket is ready!

According to this pattern:

The pattern for the Casket website was prepared by Anna Ivina.

Even if there are still frosts ahead, let's start preparing for spring.

Let's sew a light jacket using padding polyester. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)

We will sew something like this:
This is, of course, a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.

Let’s not worry about quilting the fabric; there are plenty of fabrics on sale already quilted onto synthetic padding. Beautiful...

When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not come to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.

We will need fabric: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from 50, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.

I still couldn’t buy pre-quilted fabric, so we’ll do the quilting ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles per meter, or lining fabric was quilted onto the padding polyester. This was passed off as a “jacket” at 650 rubles per meter.

The raincoat for stitching needs to be thin.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted with insulation to “stand up”. Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.

So, my expenses:

raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
padding polyester (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is possible)
The basic fabric costs 540 rubles.

You will also need lining fabric.
Take an ordinary synthetic one, inexpensive, durable, which does not fall apart in your hands. The same as raincoat fabrics.

If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match with a zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to choose a zipper to match it.
We'll buy it later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unzip it from below.

Sintepon can be thinner, thicker - plumper. Please note, the thicker the padding polyester, the plumper your jacket will be.
There is also holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation except batting. With batting, the jacket will not be liftable.

We will quilt the already cut pieces.

There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I have seen jacket fabrics on sale quilted with thick threads, the same as those used to stitch jeans. Beautiful.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you apply a weak tension, loops appear on the front side of the fabric; if you apply a stronger tension, it tightens the fabric.

So most likely we will quilt with the same threads that we use to sew.
I can’t say for sure yet. I’ll open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I’ll tell you.

Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale; you can, of course, knit it yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.

Taking measurements

Get ready, taking measurements is a very important stage.

Let me remind you that you need to tie a lace or elastic band around your waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have many measurements just from her.

To create a pattern for our quilted jacket, we will need the following measurements:

1. Chest circumference (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, on the back the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account)

2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)

3. Hip circumference (horizontally across the widest part of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)

4. Neck circumference (horizontally at the base of the neck)

5. Shoulder length (measured from the intersection line of the shoulder and the neck circumference line to the end point of the shoulder)

6. Shoulder circumference (measured across the fullest part of the arm)

7. Front width (measured along the front between the armpits)

8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)

9. Back length to waist (measured from the starting point of the shoulder to the waist line).

10. Length of the front to the waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)

11. Side height (measured from the waist to the armpit)

12. Sleeve length (measured along a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)

13. Wrist circumference

14. Oblique shoulder height (measured along the back from the spine at the waist line to the extreme point of the shoulder)

15. Length of the product from the waist (measured from the waist line to the line of the desired length of the product)

The girls asked how to take measurements of themselves.

It's difficult. Some measurements are completely impossible. For example, the width of the back.

You'll have to ask someone.

Show your assistant a picture of how to take the required measurement, and check the correctness in the mirror.

If you don’t tend to change your body size often (well, at least the length :))), then taking measurements once can be useful for sewing several things.

Constructing a pattern

I won’t torment you with the theory of selecting and calculating increases for a jacket.

I offer ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some ready-made jacket, the degree of fit of which suits you. You can take your own increment values.

In any case, increases and their distribution according to standards are not a constant value. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Larger increases mean greater freedom of fit, smaller increases mean the jacket will fit you more.

1. I suggest taking an increase in chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, then the jacket will be very loose.

2. Increase in hip circumference - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase for the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.

3. The increase in the waist will happen by itself, then you will see from the construction.

4. increase to the back width of 4-5 cm, to the chest width - 3-4 cm.

I write about the remaining increases in the formation.

Write the increments on the measurement plate right away so as not to get confused.

I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it the measurement with the increase and circle it.

And it is clear that when constructing we use a measurement from a circle, and a measurement from a figure will be useful for checking or for constructing another pattern.

Shelf

1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waist line. We sign so as not to get confused.

2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, place a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid-front line.

3. From the waist up along this line of the middle front, we set aside the measurement Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase per bag - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (front waist length + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.

4. Draw a perpendicular to the left to point A3.

5. Along this perpendicular we plot the value (Osh (Neck circumference): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.

6. Down from point A3 we set the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5

We are increasing the width and depth of the front neckline by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not pinch :)

8. From the resulting point, set aside 4 cm down to bevel the shoulder. Let's call point 4.

9. Draw line A4,4. Extend a little beyond point 4.

10. From the waist down along the middle front line, set aside the value (About (hip circumference): 5).

Draw a perpendicular to the left from the resulting point. This is the hip line. Let's sign.

That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated using the formula (About: 5).

Back

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line we set aside the value (Chest circumference) plus Increase in chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.

From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular upward. This is the line of the middle of the back.

2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we put aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Back length to waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.

3. From point A to the right, draw a perpendicular. We set aside the value (Osh (Neck circumference): 6). We put point A1.

4. Place 2 cm down from point A. This is the depth of the neck.

After drawing the neck line, widen it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.

We increase the back neckline only by 1.5 cm in width. Leave the depth at 2 cm until fitting.

5. From point A1 to the right, set aside the measurement DP plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)

6. From this point downwards we set aside 3 cm for the shoulder bevel. We get point 3.

7. Draw line A1,3. Place the measurement Dp + 3 cm on it again.

Create a dart in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the dart is perpendicular to the shoulder line. The length of the dart is 8-9 cm, the opening of the tuck is 2 cm.

8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (the height of the shoulder is oblique). We measure from point Tc to point 3. If it is more, leave it like that until trying on. The main thing is not less. If it is less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from the horizontal line of the shoulder we put not 3 cm down, but less. As much as is needed according to your Vpc measurement).

9. From the waist line, place the measurement Wb (Side Height) up. Draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let’s label it “chest line.”

At the intersection of the chest line with the line of the middle of the front we get the GP point, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back we get the GS point.

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.

Og (Chest circumference) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. If your chest is not large, then for a jacket, I recommend making the front and back the same in width. In a jacket we need a fairly large increase in the back for freedom of movement.

For example, Og is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 16 cm.

It turns out (100+16):4=29. The width of the shelf will be 29 cm. The width of the back will also be 29 cm.

We set aside the resulting values ​​along the chest line. Let's call the resulting point G3.

At the waist line we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these parts at chest level. This is a side dart. We won't make any other darts - we have a tie at the waist. On quilted fabric, stitched darts create more thickness.

We set aside the resulting values ​​along the waist line.

10. Calculate the width of the shelf and back along the hip line.

It is calculated in the same way as for the chest: (About (hip circumference) plus the increase in the hips divided by 4). We set aside the resulting values ​​along the hip line.

For example: hip circumference 108 cm plus an increase of 10 cm = 118. 118 divided by 4 equals 29.5.

We set aside 29.5 cm from the point Bp to the left along the hip line. We move from point BS 29.5 to the right along the hip line.

In the example, the hips are wider than the chest, so the drawing shows an extension towards the hip line. If the hips are narrower than the chest, then there may be a narrowing of the side line towards the hips.

Draw a side line by connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.

Armhole line

11. Along the chest line from the point GP, set aside the value to the left ((Chest width + Increase to chest width) divided by 2 (Wg+Wg): 2)). We put point G2. From this point we draw a vertical upward until it intersects with the shoulder line. This line is our guide. We will determine the width of the shelf at this level during fitting.

12. Draw a line for the front armhole by hand from point 4 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G2. So that the chest width is not already measured as the chest width + an increase in the freedom of fit.

13. Along the chest line from the GS point, we put the value to the right (Back width + Increase in back width divided by 2 ((Ws + Pshs): 2)).

14. Draw a line for the back armhole by hand from point 3 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G1. So that the width of the back is not already measured as the width of the back + an increase in the freedom of fit.

The entire pattern of the shelf and back is ready.

Necessarily! After construction, we check the drawing. We measure all the widths and lengths and check the measurements.

Work calmly, we are in no hurry. The main thing is that we enjoy the process, praise ourselves more often and let our loved ones know how smart you are and what successes you have already achieved.

Sleeve pattern

Trying on and wearing a finished item for the first time are my favorite stages of sewing things. The rest have to be endured out of necessity.

Please take your time. After construction, check everything carefully. If something doesn’t add up or you don’t like, check again to see if you calculated and drew everything correctly, and then write to me.

We are building a sleeve.

1. Draw a vertical line. We put point O at the top.

2. From point O, set down the Sleeve Length measurement (Druk) and draw a horizontal line through the resulting point. This is the line of the bottom of the sleeve.

3. From point O, we set the height of the sleeve cap down.

calculation of the rim height:

We measure the length of the armhole of the front and back, dividing the resulting figure by 3.

For a jacket, it is better to reduce this number by 2-5 cm, depending on the degree of “drop” of the shoulder.

Look at the picture of our jacket, here the shoulder is considered “in place,” that is, not lowered.

If you decide to lower the shoulder, for example, by 2 cm (on the pattern you drew a shoulder 2 cm longer than your own), then reduce the height of the sleeve cap by 3 cm, etc.

We designate the resulting point O1 and draw a horizontal line through it.

4. Sleeve width is equal to Shoulder circumference plus increase (Op + P).

Increase in sleeve width for jackets from 10 cm. I took 10 cm for my jacket. You can’t wear a thick sweater. If you wear your jacket over some bulky clothing, then measure the girth of your arm in this clothing and add 10 cm to the resulting girth. You can’t go wrong.

If the arm is full (more than 36 cm), then you can reduce the increase to 6 cm (this is the minimum) so that the jacket looks better and does not make your figure look fat.

Place half on both sides of the mid-sleeve line. We get points P and P1

5. Connect points P and P1 with straight lines to point O. Line P,O- the front part of the sleeve cap, line P1, O - the back part of the sleeve cap. We divide these lines into 4 parts. The deflection in the middle between points P and p is 2 cm, put point 2, between points p and O is 1.5 cm, put point 1.5, etc.

6. Draw the curve of the sleeve (look at the drawing) through points P, 2, p, 1.5, O and then O, 1.5, s, 1, P1

7. Bottom of the sleeve.

Divide the wrist circumference (as measured) plus an increase of 10 cm in half and set it aside on both sides of the midline of the sleeve. We get points H and H1.

8. Connect points P and H, P1 and H1.

9. We measure the cuff line of the sleeve and check that it matches the length of the armhole. The length of the sleeve cap should be 3-4 cm longer than the armhole, then the sleeve will fit well.

We check the front part of the sleeve cap for compliance with the length of the armhole of the front, and check the back part of the sleeve cap for compliance with the length of the back armhole. They should accordingly be 1.5-2 cm longer than “their” armhole parts.

If the length of the sleeve collar is not enough, then check the height of the sleeve. If you think it is sufficient (you calculated it correctly, as I wrote to you above), then increase the sleeve width.

We sign the pattern: “Sleeve, 2 parts” and mark the direction of the grain thread. It coincides with the line of the middle of the sleeve.

Construction of a stand-up collar

1. Construct a right angle at point O. Up from point O we set the height of the stand. For jackets from 5 centimeters. We put point B

2. Set the length of the collar to the right (measure the length of the neck according to the drawing). Place point B2

3. From point B2 up, set aside 0-2 cm, depending on the desired degree of fit of the stand. We put point B3.

If you take the number 0, then the collar will be visually slightly distant from the neck. If the number is 2, then the collar will fit more closely, as if inclined towards the neck.

4. Draw a line for stitching in the stand from point O to point B3

5. Draw a perpendicular to the stitching line from point B3. We set the height of the stand on it.

6. Draw the flying part of the stand

If it’s not entirely clear, there is a video on the blog of constructing a stand-up collar for a shirt. First video.

The structure is the same, only the numbers are slightly different.

You can view it here:

Cutting and stitching

The hardest part is over. There are only pleasures left

Uncover

Before cutting, we make sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this during purchase or upon receipt from a client. But before cutting, we inspect the fabric again, in case we missed something or something new appeared.

If you are worried that you may have constructed the pattern incorrectly, or are afraid of ruining the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.

Try it on, make sure that the jacket still “fits” you, that the sleeve fits into the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.

We place the patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the grain thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, and pin it with tailor’s pins.

We trace each pattern with chalk along the contour, drawing the second contour by retreating to the seam allowance.

Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with padding polyester, and if you also quilt yourself, then make 2 cm seam allowances along the shoulder seams, side seams, armholes, and the middle seam of the sleeve, 1-1.3 cm along the neckline, hem allowance for hem and hem sleeves at least 5 cm.

Cut out without detaching the pattern from the fabric.

Small parts must also be placed on the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, or even the shape. It’s better to cut out small details after fitting.

Stitch

For quilting, we draw lines on the front side of the cut parts with a sharpened soap (chalk can be difficult to clean off from the fabric) along which we will quilt. These can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Don’t come up with a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.

We place a part, for example a shelf, on the padding polyester and cut out the padding polyester along the contour of the part with a small allowance, 2-2.5 cm.

We chop off the cut piece and padding polyester along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.

First, we sew a line along the contour of the part, departing 4-5 mm from the edge, trim off the excess padding along the edges, then quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
Stitch length is maximum.

Fitting

I think everyone has already cut out their jacket. Let's move on to the fitting.

For fitting you need:

1. baste shoulder and side seams, middle sleeve seam, baste sleeves. “Assemble” the product.

2. We don’t baste the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least the patterns

Fitting

We pin the product as it will be in finished form.

What you need to pay attention to when trying on:

1. Overall balance of the product.

Let's see if the shelf or back is too tight. This may happen if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the length of the shelf to the waist are taken incorrectly.

2. Position of shoulder seams.

We look to see if the shoulder seam line extends too far onto the front or back

3. Shoulder length.

The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)

4. Shoulder height

We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if you raise the shoulder.

5. Neckline

The fabric should not “run” onto the neck.

The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.

6. Side seams.

They should be vertical unless the model specifies anything else.

7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of ​​the chest, waist and hips.

Perhaps we are discussing it with the client.

8. The width of the product is at the measurement level of Chest Width and Back Width.

Move around a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.

9. Bottom of the product.

We check that the bottom line is horizontal, unless the model specifies otherwise.

10. Sleeve fit.

Let's see if the sleeve fits well. I indicate an incorrect fit of the sleeve by diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve.

We check whether the height of the sleeve cap corresponds to the armhole. The height of the rim needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.

11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.

12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying the pattern.

13. We specify the shape and size of the pocket and valves. If it is an invoice, we pin the pocket pattern in place; if it is a welt, we simply mark it with lines.

We mark all changes by pinning them with tailor’s pins, and additionally make

clarifying entries.

We make changes to the cut based on the pinned pins and the notes you made during

fitting time.

A second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.

The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.

Basics

After fitting, we make adjustments to the cut. Mark the location of the pockets.

There is a video fitting of another jacket on the site, take a look, maybe it will be useful in some way:

I decided to simplify it - we’ll just make a pocket with a leaf, without a zipper.

Such a pocket can be made on both shelves at the bottom, and as an internal one - on the lining in the chest area.

Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 practice pockets until you get a good one.

The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, length - 14-15 cm for a women's jacket, 16-17 cm for a men's jacket. The main thing is that your hand fits freely into your pocket.

We will need to cut out:

leaflet (a rectangle made of the main fabric of the fabric 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),

valance (a rectangle made of the main fabric the same size as the leaf), pocket burlap (from the lining fabric, or from the main fabric)

Glue the leaf with adhesive cloth.

1. draw the entry point to the pocket:

width, pocket length and center line (turquoise line)

2. on the piece of paper and on the valance, at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw stitch lines

3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaf to the middle line face to face, from the side - a valance

3. Topstitch the leaf and valance

4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - diagonally towards the corners (pink line on the pocket markings)

Be careful not to cut 1-1.5 mm to the last stitch so as not to damage the thread

5. turn the valance and the leaf inside out, sweep out the leaf, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm

6. sew 1 piece of burlap pocket to the leaf (in the seam of attaching the leaf to the shelf)

7. Unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be finished, sharpen the pocket along the face on the side where the leaves are stitched (for fastening and finishing). You can sew a stitch by stepping back 1-2 mm, or on the presser foot.

8. stitch 2 pieces of pocket burlap to the free edge of the valance

9. secure the pins (along the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a stitch, as if sewing them to a piece of paper

10. stitch together the burlap pocket details

11. stitch the remaining 3 sides of the pocket

Even if you don't make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.

Sewing the top. Lining

The jacket is easy to sew:

1. sew shoulder seams

2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket

3. attach a zipper to both shelves

4. sew the sleeve into the armhole

5. sew the side seam and the sleeve seam at the same time

Lining

The lining is cut out using the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the lining and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).

From the main fabric we cut out the lining and back facing

From the lining - the rest

Seam allowances on the shoulder, side seams and lined sleeves are the same as on the top of the jacket.

Seam allowance at the bottom is 1.5 cm, at the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm

1. stitch the edge to the shelf

2. sew the back facing to the back part

3. sew the shoulder seams on the lining

4. sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining

5. sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining

6. sew down the side seam of the lining and at the same time the sleeve seam

You can make a pocket on the lining in the chest area. You can use an invoice or don’t be lazy and make a slotted one with a leaf, such as I described in the last post.

The jacket is ready!

Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I've walked mine a couple of times already.

This is what happened

And this is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:

1. Fold the top of the jacket and the lining face to face, stitch along the middle of the front, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay a finishing stitch (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flap of the collar.

2. Turn the sleeve inside out and straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, we trim the sleeve lining; it should be the same length as the finished folded sleeve.

3. We process the bottom of the sleeve into a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another amount as you left for the hem). We simply put the lining in the fold.

4. Sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and neckline)

5. Attach the lining to the top in the shoulder area.

6. We process the bottom of the jacket into a hem with a closed cut (tuck it 1 cm, tuck it by as much as you left for the hem). We simply put the lining in the fold.

The jacket is ready!

Here's the back view without the belt

Here with a belt

My mannequin, unlike me, has breast sizes 2-3. In my opinion, this jacket fits him perfectly without any darts. So this style seems to be suitable for both thin and curvy girls.

P.S. Girls! You can ask all questions about the cut and sewing of this jacket to the author of the article, Elena Kucherova