Frosty pattern step by step knitting. Top frosty patterns

Pullover "Frosty pattern"

For a very long time I wanted to knit such a pullover. I spent quite some time sorting out the pattern and finally knitting it together. In my personal opinion, it turned out to be a very beautiful, very winter and quite stylish pullover with short sleeves (wear under a turtleneck).

I used Nako yarn - 400 g, stocking and circular knitting needles No. 4.5, with elastic band No. 4.

The diagram used is shown below (the diagram is not mine, found on the Internet).

The pullover is based on a square napkin, which is knitted from the center. The diagram shows 1/4 of this napkin.

Instructions for the diagram.

To avoid a very tight ring in the center of the flower, I cast on 4 chain stitches and knitted the required number of stitches from them onto stocking needles. This makes the center of the flower look much neater.

When the central flower was ready, I switched to circular ones.

I separated the loops for the collar (I got 22 loops), this is for size 48.

You should end up with a square. Separate the loops for the sleeves, sides, and bottom onto additional knitting needles. Knit the second part (let’s say the front one, with a large neckline) and sew the side and shoulder parts loop into loop.

Flower petals are knitted in the sleeves (I left 25 loops on the sleeves from the front and back), then 8 rows of 2*2 elastic.

The front and back parts are also lengthened with stockinette stitch by 7 cm, and then the elastic is 2*2 20 rows.

Finally, the collar is knitted with a 2*2 elastic band.

The pullover is ready!

No title

"Frosty pattern" women's jumper. C step by step description Mermaids from Osinka.

We need thread, 5 pcs sock knitting needles, a hook and knitting needles on a short line.

I will knit, 50g 70m. The thread is not thin. Knitting needles No. 5.
You need approximately 50g 70m, 80m, 90m, 100m. The pattern will be very visible.

1) And so. We crochet 16 loops into the sliding loop. Using 4.5 knitting needles, we pull the loops out of the hook loops onto the knitting needles (4 knitting needles on each with 4 loops = 16 loops). Attach a marker, if there is no marker then use a contrasting thread. This will be the beginning and end of the row.

2) The diagram shows only the front rows and 1/4 of the circle. Knit 3 rows in the round, stop.

1.


Personally, I knit in the classic way. The front loop is behind the top lobule.

3) We knit further. And so, we knitted 4 rows (1 row, sliding loop and elongated loops, and 3 more rows).
Knitting needles No. 5. We knit the 5th row, look at the diagram. Front row. Crossed loop, 4 yarn overs, 2 double yarn overs, loops, 4 yarn overs, crossed. loop. We repeat this 3 more times.
6th row. Purl row. Where is the cross. I advise you to knit the loop crossed (this is important), we knit 4 yarn overs, k1, p1, k1, p1. etc.
7th row. A row of faces. All face loops.
8th row. Purl row. All loops according to the pattern(s).

4) We knit further.
9-row. persons row. In the diagram, 2cm with a slant to the left, those who knit on the top lobe, remove from the knitting needle and turn the loops, return them to the left knitting needle, knit 2cm for the bottom slice., 1knit, 2 yarn overs, 1knit, 2cm with a slant to the right, for the upper lobules. We knit to the end of the row, strictly according to the pattern.
10-row. purl, row. This is IMPORTANT, the loops are knitted 2cm, remove the loop behind the knitting needle. So we knit in the round, where there are 2cm. Knit-knit, 2 yarn overs (k1, p1)
11th row. Persons row. According to the scheme
Knit up to 21 rows, I think everything will be clear. Make sure that the loops do not twist and are straight.

The pattern for the jumper was taken from such a napkin. Diagram for the pattern.

5) And so we knit further.
Row 21, Knit row. We knit according to the pattern. 2vm with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2vm to the right, yarn over, 5 knit, yo, 2vm to the left, 1 knit, 2 ym to the right, yo, 5 knit, yo, and so on 3 more times.
Row 22, Purl, row according to pattern (circular row). DON'T FORGET where 2nd was, remove the thread behind the knitting needle.
Row 23, Knit, row. 3vm (slip 1 loop, knit 2 together, pull through the removed one), 2 yarn overs, knit 7, yarn over, 3 together, yarn over, knit 7, yarn over, (read the diagram in the round), another yarn over must be done, etc.

6) We knit further.
24 row. Circular purl. row. Where there was 3 stitches, we knit knit, 2 yarn overs, (k1, p1,) all the rest according to the pattern. Please note that we knit all the yarn overs between the petals.
25-row. Persons row, k1, from 1 loop knit 2, (1 for the top 1 for the bottom slice). K9, yarn over, k1, yarn over, k9, etc.

7)26-row. Circular purl row according to the pattern.
27 row. Persons row. from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2. 2vm (left), 8 knits, yarn over, 1knit, yo, 8 knits, 2vm (right), according to the diagram, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2. we start knitting from 1- 5 petals.

8)28-row. Circular purl, row according to the pattern. DON'T FORGET where the 2nd stitch was, remove the loop behind the knitting needle

9) For those who have already knitted everything, I’ll give you some advice: knit rows 47 and 48. They are not on the diagram, but the drawing looks better and more complete.
For those who knit row 29.
29 row. Faces, row. Sk stitch, 2 yarn overs, 2 stitches, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn over loops, 2 yarn overs, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches (left), 17 knits, 2 stitches (right). etc.
30-row Circular purl row. We knit according to the pattern, but remember the tips. Where 2vm, remove the thread behind the knitting needle. 2 yarn overs (k1, p1), Where crossed we knit crossed.
31st row. Knit row Sk, k1, k2, etc.
Girls knit up to row 46 inclusive.

Select a closing option:
Option No. 1. Close along the side shoulder lines, leave loops for the sleeve, neckline, and waist.
Option No. 2. In the open loops, thread the thread (thick, with a needle) in a circle.
Both options, moisten or wet very much (it depends on the thread). Do not squeeze, but wrap in a towel and squeeze. Straighten it, give it a square shape. (on the table, floor)
Girls, that's it, we've finished our square. We knit the second half, DON’T FORGET who added rows, add in the same way.

This is what the pattern should look like at this point in knitting.

QUESTIONS WHEN KNITTING:

---hi all!
I've been struggling with the "frosty pattern" for a week now. I've mastered 19 rows. 21 rows - just questions. There are not enough loops to cast on. After the 19th row, there are 12 loops left on the knitting needle, and to cast on the 21st row you need 20 loops. What did I do wrong?
Everyone writes that they can do everything so easily - it makes me so jealous... I’ve already changed the threads three times, unraveled the knitting five times... Why is it so hard for me?
Everyone in the family can't wait for this fight to end. Who will win: me or the pattern?

I can't figure out where I went wrong. Row 20 (this is like the wrong side of row 19) consists of 12 loops: slip 1, knit, knit, purl. persons 1 remove. 1 remove faces. persons Remove purl face 1. In the 21st row you already need 20 loops to cast on. So I don’t have them.
Girls, please help me
MY POWER IS NO LONGER!!!

ANSWER: Klenushka 2010, we made a mistake.
19- row 2 inm to the left., 1 knit., yo., 1 knit., 2 knit. to the right., yo., 3 knit., yo., 2 knit. ., yarn over etc.
20-row. Circular purl. row according to the drawing. Slip 1 stitch behind the knitting needle., K3, Slip 1, K5, Slip 1, K3, Slip 1, K5, etc.
Purl, no loops.
*****************************************************************************************************

Rusalok4ka, tell me, what do the curly brackets above row 45 mean in the diagram?

We don't pay attention to them.
******************************************************************************************************

12) We knit further. We knit an elastic band at the waist, collar or sleeve. First I knitted an elastic band at the waist, returning all the open loops to circular knitting needles. The loops we have are not enough for us. I did the following: knit in the round, row 1, k1, chain 1, knit 1, chain 1, etc., so I added half the stitches. . Row 2, knit 2, purl 2. Row 3, k2, slip yarn behind needle, purl 2. Row 4, knit 2, purl 2, etc. Where stitched, pull the loops out of the stitches. At the end of our elastic band, switch to 1*1, knit 2 rows, close with a needle and thread.

13) The collar also needs to be knitted in the round, and loops added as well. I knitted the sleeves in short rows. From the top of the sleeve collar, determine the center, from the center to the right by 5,6,7 loops, start knitting, gradually include the open loops in the work. We also need to add loops. I knitted as follows, k1, chain 1, knit 1, wag 1, and so on until the moment when you need to turn the yarn over.
I did the yarn over work, turn it, we knit 2 knits, purl 2, we reached the end (the beginning of our knitting), connect 2 loops, turn the yarn over work (open loops), girls, this work requires a lot of attention, so I’m writing to you and wondering if it’s clear or not, I’ve already knitted it It's easy for me.
!!! You must connect 2 loops at the same time, make increases in the form of an air loop, shorten rows, make broaches on the wrong side (for those who have made such an elastic band).
But it turns out to be a nice wing, knit quickly.

SUCCESSFUL PERFORMANCES:
1) Threads - Zerda from Lanoso.

2) A good collar. Kandy threads, Vitov needles 4 and 3.

3) Length 58 cm, consumption exactly 400 g of acrylic flora card, 230-100 g in 2 threads, knitting needles No. 4, elastic bands on the machine in 1 thread.

4) Bingo threads, Italy 50g/80m, knitting needles No. 6, all knitted using open loops, I liked the threads, voluminous, soft, warm, they didn’t lose their appearance after washing.

5) Merino Austermann yarn, 50 g - 125 m, back stitch knitted...

6) Lucky sleeve

7) it took 5 skeins of angora and 3 muge.

8) (almost 6 skeins of “Lux” from the Trinity factory, knitting needles 4.5

9) I knitted it in three threads - one thread of Camelot mohair and two threads of Micro Schachenmayr nomotta Micro acrylic (I just came across it).

SLEEVE
1
10) It took almost exactly 400 g of Yarn Art Charizma in two threads (a trifle was left), knitting needles #5

11)

12) Bamboo+cotton threads 50g/75m, knitting needles 4 and 4.5, it took a little less than 200g

ORIGINAL DESCRIPTION

13) RUGIADA merino extrafine thread 50g 125m. Italy. Knitting needles No. 4. Consumption 300g

14)

15) Lanagold threads, it took about 220 g

Hand-knitted items are relevant at any time of the year. Owners of original knitted items always look fashionable, stylishly interesting and eye-catching. With the help of a correctly selected model, you can correct your figure, hide flaws and highlight your strengths.

Among the diversity knitted patterns You can especially highlight things knitted with jacquard patterns.

We present to you a pullover with jacquard pattern for every day.

Jacquard - fashionable pattern

Jacquard is a multi-color knitting, also called intarsia, in which colors change frequently, mainly at a distance of 2 to 7 loops. This technique is known in many countries, and the culture of a particular country finds its own interesting reflection in it. In products for the cold season, it predominates winter theme, in this case the Norwegian or so-called frost pattern is often used.

Knitting technique

The jacquard technique involves knitting with knitting needles in stockinette stitch (stockinette stitch). If you knit in the round, that is, only the front rows are knitted, this greatly simplifies the execution of the jacquard pattern. At the same time, the process of weaving threads of different colors always occurs from the wrong side, that is, the broaches and weaves on the front side of the product are not visible, but are hidden at the back. To avoid excessive density of the product, you should not use more than two colors in one row, otherwise a large number of broaches will make the knitted fabric too thick. For convenience and correct execution of the pattern, it is always necessary to check the pattern diagram and calculate the number of loops different colors and strictly follow the instructions for the diagram. Skipping a few stitches can really spoil the whole pattern.

Advantages of jacquard pattern

A pullover with a jacquard pattern is warm and practical, original and stylish thing, which can be knitted as a gift not only for a girl or child, but also for a man. Using patterns with Norwegian patterns that can be found on our website, beautifully combining them with each other, you can create amazing sweaters, leg warmers, hats, mittens and many different wardrobe items.

• the thread in the broach should not tighten the fabric or sag; during work it is necessary to monitor the uniformity of tension;
• at the beginning of work, determine what color thread will be on top in the broach and always follow this principle;
• When switching from threads of one color to another, you must always cross them, otherwise holes will form in the fabric.

One of the most common Norwegian patterns is the star or snowflake, with a wide variety of sizes and shapes. You can knit such a pullover with a jacquard pattern.

Women's pullover with jacquard pattern and embroidery

The sweater is knitted with threads of contrasting colors, where white is the main color and the pattern is made in black; you can choose any shades, the combinations of which will look no less beautiful.

For a product for size 36-38 you need:

• 300 g yarn white(160 m / 100 g);
• 100 grams of black yarn;
• circular knitting needles No. 3,5, 4;
• pattern;
• diagram of the pattern (we do not knit the deer, but embroider it after finishing knitting all the details; during the work process, knit this part in one tone with white threads).

We knit the rib at the bottom of the sweater and sleeves with smaller knitting needles, and the main parts with knitting needles No. 4.

Knitting the back

To knit the back, cast on 90 loops with threads of the main color and make a 2 x 2 elastic band with a height of 45 rows, this is 13 cm, it is worth noting that in our case we start and end the row after and before the purl loops, not counting the edge loops. When finishing the elastic band, distribute evenly and add 9 stitches and as a result we will get 99 stitches on the knitting needles. We continue knitting 18 rows in stockinette stitch. Let's start working with the image. We place the pattern between the edges, perform 78 rows from marks “a” to “c” with a Norwegian pattern, “e” is the middle of the pattern. At a height of 39 cm from the beginning, we knit the parts taking into account the formation of the armhole. We decorate it by closing 3 loops on each side of the back and in every second row 2 times 2.6 x 1. After finishing working with the pattern, we knit with the main color and at a height of 15 cm from the armhole we close the central 39 loops. To round the neckline from the inner edges, close two loops on both shoulders and after 2 cm close the remaining 15 loops on each shoulder.

We knit the front part according to the same pattern as the back, with a pattern and armhole, and make the neckline deeper. Having knitted a height of 11 cm from the armhole, we close the central 33 loops, and in every second row on the inner sides of the cutout 2 x 2, 1 x 1, we finish both parts separately. At a distance equal to the height of the back, close 15 loops on the shoulders.
For the sleeves, cast on 50 stitches and use an elastic band to make 12 cm. Before moving to the main part, add 1 loop at the edges and in the center of the row, for a total of 53 loops on the knitting needles. To expand the sleeves before the beginning of the armhole, you need to add 1 loop on both sides 9 times according to this pattern: in the 5th row, then 4 times in every sixth and eighth rows. We knit the elastic and stockinette stitch with white color before and after the pattern. At a height of 11 cm from the elastic band, we perform the Norwegian pattern from rows 53 to 78 of the pattern 3 times, gray The diagram shows the middle of the sleeve and we knit it to the end in white. With a sleeve length of 43 cm, close 3 loops on the sides, in each second 7 x 2, 2 x 1, 7 x 2. Close the remaining 11 loops.
Before assembly, pin all parts, moisten, and dry naturally. Embroider deer along the back, front and sleeves according to the pattern. Sew along the seams. Along the neckline, cast on 104 loops and knit with an elastic band in a circle of 8 cm using knitting needles No. 3.5, switch to knitting needles No. 4 and perform another 12 cm. Finish the work.

Knitted openwork sleeveless vest from the Victoria's Secret collection. Description of knitting.

This stylish sleeveless vest will keep you warm in the cold and won’t let you go unnoticed in any company. Warm and comfortable, soft and elastic (without a single seam) - this pattern is knitted in a very unusual way, in the round! Want to learn a new knitting technique in the round?! Then let's get started :-)

This sleeveless vest is knitted in an on-line thread on the Osinka forum and it is known to many knitters under the name “Frosty Pattern”. Since the topic has already exceeded a hundred pages and not everyone has the opportunity and time to read all the messages in the topic, I will allow myself to briefly talk about my experience in knitting this blouse, what difficulties may be encountered in the process and how to avoid them.

Let me start by saying that the main feature of knitting this blouse is that the front and back are knitted in the round from the center, i.e. based on the principle of knitting a napkin. Despite this non-standard knitting method, the sleeveless vest is knitted quite quickly due to the thick thread, large knitting needles, openwork pattern and numerous yarn overs, and at the same time simple (if you practice a little with knitting in the round).

To knit an openwork sleeveless vest with knitting needles we will need (size 44-46):

- yarn blue color(I used Emma yarn, 100% acrylic, 100 g = 205 m.) - 200 g.
(this is not a typo, indeed, it took me only 2 skeins of yarn, 100 g each, to make this sleeveless vest. :-))
- stocking needles and knitting needles on fishing line No. 5;
- hook No. 4;

Advice: The right yarn is the key to success! Since the knitting pattern does not involve changes, i.e. The pattern is such that it is very difficult to shorten or lengthen it, then the size of the future product depends entirely on the thickness of the yarn and the size of the knitting needles. The yarn should not only be of a suitable size, but also quite voluminous (that’s why I chose acrylic for knitting). Before starting knitting, I recommend trying to knit a sample from various types yarn (and different numbers of needles), then wet the samples and dry on a flat surface.
I recommend knitting the central “Star” pattern for the sample, then measure the length of the diagonal (from the edge of one ray of the star to the opposite edge, passing through the center) and multiply by a factor of 2.3. The resulting value in centimeters will mean the approximate (!) length of the diagonal of the finished sleeveless vest, which will be obtained by continuing knitting with the selected yarn and knitting needles.

In my case, the diagonal of the “Star” is 23 cm, the length of the diagonal of the finished front is approx. 53 cm. The length of the side of the square can be calculated as the length of the diagonal divided by 1.4. From here we get that the side length is approx. 38 cm. All these calculations were made in a non-stretched form; similar values ​​can be calculated on a stretched sample.
This is the sleeveless vest pattern I ended up with:

Figure 1. Pattern for a sleeveless vest for size 44-46

Knitting description:

As I already said, this blouse is knitted from the center front/back and then in the round. At the same time, if desired, the back of this sweater can be knitted in the same openwork pattern as the front, or it can be knitted simply with stockinette stitch.
I recommend (especially for beginner knitters) to knit the back with an openwork pattern, since in this case both the front and the back are equally elastic (due to knitting in the circle, the knitted fabric stretches equally well in all directions), in addition, with this method of knitting you can completely avoid seams by connecting the loops with a knitted seam, i.e. loop to loop.

1. Back. We knit according to the pattern (note that the pattern shows only odd rows; in even rows, all loops are knitted). Click on the diagram to enlarge:

Figure 2. Knitting pattern for an openwork pattern

The set of stitches of the first row must be done as follows: cast on 16 single crochets and distribute them on stocking needles, as shown in the figure:

Figure 3. Starting knitting in the round

Next, knit in the round on stocking needles. I recommend looking at step-by-step photographs of the beginning of the pattern made by a craftswoman Rusalo4ka.
As the pattern expands, it is convenient to switch to knitting needles on a fishing line (in the last rows of the pattern you can even use 2 pairs of knitting needles on a fishing line: distribute half the loops on one knitting needle and the other on the other. This way you can better see the forming knitted fabric).
Please note that when knitting the “Star” pattern, the pattern turns out not flat, but convex. Subsequently, after washing and drying, the pattern will straighten.

After the pattern is completely knitted, we transfer all the loops to the auxiliary thread (the thread should be long enough so that you can freely distribute all the loops along it and lay out the back in the form of a square).
Then I recommend washing the back and drying it on a flat surface, stretching it slightly so that the pattern becomes flat.
When using wool or cotton yarn, the product can also be ironed (under no circumstances should yarn with acrylic be ironed!).

2. Front We knit similarly to the back. In the 37th row of the pattern, to form the neckline, remove the middle 9 knit stitches (see the inverted heart in the knitting pattern) onto an auxiliary needle.
Next, we switch to knitting with front and back rows, continuing to knit according to the pattern.
To form a deepening of the neckline, to the right and left of the removed loops, at the end of each row we unknit several loops, and also transfer them to the auxiliary knitting needle:
in rows 38-41 - we under-knit 2 loops on each side, in subsequent rows - we under-knit 1 loop.

After the front is completely knitted, we transfer the neck loops to one auxiliary thread and tie the ends of this thread in a knot. We transfer all the remaining front loops to another auxiliary thread, and I recommend starting to string the loops from the neck, i.e. Place the shoulder loops first, then the side surface, bottom, etc.
After transferring all the loops, wrap the auxiliary thread leaving the long ends on both sides (so that all the front loops can be freely distributed on the thread and laid out on the front on a flat surface). This stringing is necessary to make it more convenient to sew the shoulder seam loops in the future.
Wash and dry the front, laying it out on a flat surface.

3. Assembly: We fold the front and back with the wrong sides facing each other, so that the pattern on them matches.
Then we sew the loops shoulder seam knitted seams, as follows:

Figure 4. Knitted seam

At the same time, I recommend starting stitching from the neckline and going in the direction of the sleeve neckline. Do not secure the ends of the thread you are sewing with, but leave the ends approx. 15 cm free. This is necessary in case you need to make a few more stitches in both at the beginning or end of the shoulder seam.
Another important point: The shoulder seam goes from the neckline to the third (central) petal of the pattern, I recommend that you sew a couple more loops after this petal. This is necessary so that the seam fits better on the shoulder and so that the cuff of the armhole does not puff up towards the top.
In my case, the shoulder seam was 17 loops.

Next, we sew the loops of the side seams in the same way: from the middle of the side (see the tip of the inverted heart in the diagram) and further down to the third (central petal).
I recommend sewing 2-3 additional loops together in these seams at the bottom (to narrow the sweater at the waist) and leaving the ends of the thread free so that you can sew (or unravel) several stitches if necessary.
In my case, the side seams contain 30 loops.

4. We transfer the remaining loops of the neck, sleeves and bottom to separate auxiliary threads.
Please note that all these elements will be knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band (or, if desired, 2 by 2), and therefore the number of loops in them should be a multiple of 6 (or 4, for a 2 by 2 elastic band).
The number of loops for the neck, sleeves and bottom can be adjusted using the ends of the threads left when sewing (for example, sew or unravel 1-2 loops), as well as using decreases, i.e. knitting 2 loops together (it is important to distribute the decreases evenly around the entire circumference).
By the way, at this stage the sweater can already be tried on your figure.

5. Transfer the sleeve loops (in my case 48 loops) onto the knitting needles and knit 7 rows (2.5 cm) with a 3 by 3 elastic band, close the loops, tightening them a little (so that the cuffs do not puff up).

6. Next, we move on to knitting the neckline and bottom elastic band, and it is extremely important that the edge of the neckline and elastic band is very elastic. From my own experience, I will say that I was not immediately able to achieve the required elasticity of the edge, which led to the fact that my head did not fit into the sweater or the bottom edge was very tight on the product :-)
The problem was that I tried various ways closing the loops, I still haven’t found the most elastic way, so I decided to knit the neckline (54 loops) and the hem elastic (90 loops) separately, and then sew them to the sleeveless vest with a knitted seam.
Thus, the problem of elasticity of the edge was solved; in addition, a clear advantage of this method was that it was easier to position the elastic band beautifully and symmetrically relative to the lace pattern.
The neckline and bottom consist of 40 rows (15 cm), knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band.

7. The finished product can be washed again, dried on a flat surface and ironed.
Attention! Yarn containing acrylic cannot be ironed!

The sleeveless "Frosty pattern" is ready!

If you want to knit a beautiful product with a frosty pattern, then this article is just for you. In it you will learn how to knit such a pattern according to a pattern with a description. At first glance it may seem that this is very difficult to do, but this is not at all true. Even a beginner will be able to deal with frosty openwork and understand the entire working process.

To knit a small fabric with such a pattern, you will need knitting needles on a short fishing line number 5, a hook and any yarn that you have. Crochet one sliding buttonhole and cast on sixteen links. Then transfer the loops to four tools, 4 stitches respectively for each. Next, knit three stripes of faces. loops. Fifth person. r. is created according to the proposed scheme: a crossed loop, then four yarn overs, two crossed loops, four yarn overs and crossed again. Thus, repeat these steps three more times. The sixth row will be purl, it starts with a cross. p., four throws of thread, k1. p., 1 p. p., 1 persons. and 1 purl. n. In the seventh stripe there are all links of persons. The eighth line will be purl, but the links are knitted according to the pattern on the face. The basis of this fabric, which is knitted in a frosty pattern, is a square napkin. And you yourself decide what to create from it in the future.

Knitting continues. The ninth row will be faces. Tie two loops together, slanted at left side, then remove the links and turn them. Next, cast them on the left needle again and knit as follows: k1. etc., thread the thread twice, knit 1 again. p., 2 together with a slope in right side. Finish the strip using the diagram as a guide. In the tenth line you should do this: persons. p., knit with face, then you need to perform two stitches, knit 1. method, and the second purl. From the eleventh to the twentieth row, knit a frosty pattern of only faces. stripes.

Twenty-first r. there will be persons. Knit according to the pattern. Two joints with a tilt to the left side, 1 person. p., two with a slant to the right, nak., five faces. p., again you need to throw a thread, two together to the left, knit 1, two together to the right side, nak., five knits. and yarn over. Do this manipulation three times. In the new style, the ornament is made according to the pattern on the wrong side. The twenty-third strip will be purl, knit three joints, that is, remove 1, and make the other two with the face, stretching the removed thread through them, two throws of thread, seven knits, nac., three joints with a yarn over, seven knits. n. and again nak.

New circular purl. r. knits faces. in those places where 3 joint loops were previously made. All sketches that are made between the petals will be facial. The frosty knitting pattern continues, the twenty-fifth row is knitted like this: 1 l. p., then from one knit two, nine l. p., nak., 1 l. n., again yarn over and nine faces. n. Twenty-sixth circular r. will be done inside out, according to the drawing. Twenty-seventh r. begins by knitting two pieces from 1 stitch, do this three times, then two together with a tilt to the left, eight stitches. p., thread cast, 1 l. p., cast, eight l.p., 2 joint on the right side and finish the line by creating two things from 1 p. at once. Next row follow the drawing diagram. Thus, you need to knit forty-five stripes to get a full-fledged frosty pattern. The finished fabric can become the basis for a future pullover or blouse. If you knitted the pattern strictly according to the pattern, then you will get a square. Place new loops for the sleeves on an additional tool, and then make another similar square, just make the neckline a little larger - this will be the front part of the future jacket. Sew side and shoulder seams. The jacket can be made longer by making several rows stockinette stitch and 2 x 2 elastic bands. Close the loops in the usual way. Such an ornament can be an addition to other designs or the main one on the entire canvas.