Review. Varnish for polymer clay

The modern paint and varnish market offers products for any need. This applies to interior decoration, exterior work, repair and restoration various products and mechanisms, individual decoration of objects and much more. Under different types For base materials, varnishes and paints of different compositions, primers and antiseptic impregnations, waxes and adhesive solutions have been developed. Of course, there are special coating materials for varnishing various types of plastic.

Why coat plastic with varnish?

It is assumed that the varnish will protect plastic products from the influence of the external environment. The second point is the decorative component of the coating to give the surfaces a characteristic glossy shine. Again, with the help of a special solution, you can enhance the depth of the color of the base or even completely change the color, creating an unusual optical effect on the surface.

Varnishing extends the service life of polymer products; the durable film prevents the possibility of mechanical damage to the base (scratches, chips, cracks). True, not everyone can use varnishes on plastic. Some solutions do not react with the base materials, but simply spread over the surface. Others don’t dry at all. Still others, after a while, begin to stick, warp, and peel off. This means that you need to choose a special solution for polymer materials. Which?

What kind of varnish is used to coat plastic?

Using varnish as a regular protective coating, you can choose the most common solution for working on plastic, transparent glossy or matte. Please note that some materials can be tinted using pigment additives. Let's look at the compositions of varnishes for coating plastic.

The easiest way to purchase products is in a specialized store that sells plastic products. There will definitely be several names of such coatings in related products. To purchase, you can go to a paint and varnish store. There, with the help of a sales consultant, select the right product.

You should pay attention to the composition of the solution, its properties and purpose. So, mixtures with alcohol or acetone are absolutely not suitable for plastic, since these solvents react with the polymer. This means that water-soluble (water-based) varnishes are needed.

Water-based polyurethane (or acrylic polyurethane) varnish without latex additive (latex is not suitable for coating plastic). Based on the degree of dullness, glossy, semi-glossy and matte solutions are distinguished. An important aspect of product characteristics is the presence of a protective filter against ultraviolet radiation. If this is indicated in the composition, then you can safely use the coating (it will not turn yellow over time).

After drying, polyurethane varnish forms a durable protective film on the surface, protecting the product from abrasion and scratches, and becomes inert to the influence of external environments. The painted surface is easy to wash and clean with traditional detergents household chemicals without harm or deterioration of the protective properties of the varnish. Exceptional gloss allows you to achieve high-quality decorative coating even after multi-layer processing.

The undoubted advantage of all water-based varnishes is environmental safety due to the absence of organic solvents in the composition. Therefore, such solutions have virtually no toxic odor.

Which degree of matte finish is better to choose - glossy, matte, semi-gloss? Here the decision is made directly by the user. It all depends on the decorative purposes of the coating. Glossy varnish usually creates a shiny film on the surface, sometimes even mirror-like, reflective. Matte is less shiny and is used more to convey the depth of color of the plastic.

During operation, the glossy look is less practical, since it mirror surface mechanical damage is more noticeable (as are slight defects in the base surface).

The varnish is usually applied as an aerosol (by spraying). In this case, it turns out to lay the layer more evenly without a trace of strokes.

Typically, a special polyurethane protective varnish for plastic products is used during the production process of the product. Therefore, it is sometimes difficult to find such products in retail sales. But consumer interest, one way or another, influenced the market supply.

Actually, if the instructions for use of a paint and varnish product do not indicate its direct purpose “for work on plastic”, but the composition is urethane (one- or two-component), then feel free to purchase such a product. For example, a protective aerosol for electrical insulation of printed circuit boards, electric motors, transformers, electronic equipment and components. The varnish is easy to use because it is already an aerosol (that is, it has a spray nozzle).

This aerosol has the following properties:

• elasticity;
• formation of a durable, transparent protective film on the surface;
• mold protection;
• moisture-repellent ability;
• resistance to thermal and mechanical stress;
• anti-corrosion properties;
• high adhesion;
• dielectric properties.

The aerosol is applied to a dry, clean surface. Operating conditions are relative heat and moderate humidity. After the aerosol is applied, you need to wait for complete polymerization. After which it is recommended to polish the surface to obtain a glossy shine.

Where can I find such a unique aerosol varnish? Protective polyurethane varnish coatings for electronics can be found in the same electronics stores. Or at construction markets in the special varnish department. Note that varnish aerosol is produced by several well-known brands, so the search for a product should definitely be crowned with success.

What not to use for plastic work

But the following types of materials called “varnish” are not advisable to use:

• any nail polishes (short-lived, sticky after a while);
• hair styling aerosol (not waterproof, not antistatic);
• universal acrylic varnish mixtures, including artistic ones (they simply do not dry on polymer surfaces).

For enhanced color depth and a more dramatic look plastic product It is recommended to apply the varnish to the surface in at least two layers. This is especially true for products made of metallized and translucent plastic. In general, the more layers, the better.

Each subsequent treatment should be carried out some time after the previous one. You can learn about interlayer drying intervals from the instructions for use of a specific varnish solution. Polyurethane water-based varnishes “touch-dry” dry within 2-3 hours, completely dry in a day to a day and a half. But even after this, it is not recommended to test the coating for strength for at least another week, that is, to wet it.

Small plastic items can be dipped into the solution or painted with a brush. But during drying, hanging droplets may form on the bottom of the product, which must be carefully removed while the substance is still liquid.

Another thing is to use an aerosol. But here too it is important to ensure that the varnish evenly covers the entire surface. Therefore, re-application is recommended to eliminate any possibility of omissions.

Polymer materials themselves are quite durable. But using special protective varnish coatings, you can not only extend the period of use of the product, but also prevent negative influence from the outside. And, of course, to maintain the proper appearance of materials longer.

Aerosol varnishes are a special type of varnish mixtures that are simple and easy to use. Nevertheless, those who first encounter the need to use such materials are very surprised to learn about the number existing options coloring compounds. Therefore, when purchasing such materials, it is worth familiarizing yourself in detail with what types of varnish in spray cans exist and what their differences are.

Advantages

Aerosol varnishes, regardless of the manufacturer, have a number of advantages.

• These formulations do not require dilution or mixing; they are ready for use from the minute they are purchased. To work with spray cans, you will not need to spend extra money on additional tools: brushes or rollers. Spray varnishes are produced in small-volume containers, which makes them a practical and mobile material.
• Often, aerosol cans are a type of fast-drying coating product. Their drying time is a few minutes. Thanks to this property, smudges do not form on the treated surface.
• Spray varnishes are designed for spraying on various surfaces, such as metal, brick, wood, plastic. They can cover both flat surfaces and hard-to-reach places, all kinds of protrusions and bends, for example, areas of the car that need to be updated, but are very difficult to reach. A striking example is the ceramic two-component varnish “CERAMIC”, which gives the surface a noble shine, protects the painted surface and increases its wear resistance.

• Varnish mixtures in cylinders are very easy to use. In order to use them, you do not need specific skills, experience or special working conditions - just read the instructions for use indicated on the cylinder. The consumption of the product will be minimal - this type of application of facing material is considered the most economical. The coating layer will be uniform and homogeneous.
• These coatings have a reasonable price, although they are more expensive than conventional paints and varnishes.

Any spray varnish has excellent physical and chemical characteristics, is highly resistant to moisture and various aggressive substances, as well as stable to temperature changes. A surface painted with these products is considered completely protected from various types mechanical and atmospheric influences.

Varieties

There are several types of varnishes. Of these, it is worth highlighting two water-based types: acrylic and polyurethane. The advantage of these sprays is their fire safety. In addition, they dry quickly enough, create a durable coating, and practically do not have a specific pungent chemical odor, unlike paint.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane varnish is a derivative of polyesters and diisocyanates. This coating is resistant to physical influences. It is divided into two types: one-component and two-component (only one-component formulations are used in aerosols). They can be water-based or alcohol-containing.

Advantages of polyurethane varnishes:

• due to its composition, they do not form cracks after complete drying;
• do not peel off;
• create a durable coating;
• resistant to aggressive environments and UV rays.

Acrylic

Acrylic varnish is a viscous, water-soluble liquid that is almost odorless. It is made from liquid polymer or so-called acrylic dispersion.

This coating has the following physical and chemical properties:

• drying occurs due to the evaporation of water, after which the coating forms a film that can protect it from various mechanical damage;
• after drying, the coating is not affected by any kind of liquid;
• acrylic film remains transparent and does not turn yellow under the influence of UV rays;
• applied to any surface, including brick and concrete;
• has high adhesion to well-cleaned surfaces.

Nitrocellulose

Nitrocellulose varnish is a compound of resins, colloxylin based on an organic solvent. It has a pungent odor, and after drying it becomes safe for health. Can be used indoors, provided there is thorough ventilation. The drying period is one hour. The aerosol creates a durable coating with excellent protective characteristics and has excellent decorative qualities.

Based on external characteristics, varnishes can be colored or transparent, matte or glossy. There is also a reflective aerosol that reflects light particles from glossy surfaces. Which product to choose for the job is up to each buyer. It all depends on the location of application, the type of surface to be painted and the expected results.

Scope of application

Regardless of the manufacturer or the composition of the aerosol varnish, these sprays have a very wide range of applications.

Conventionally, we can distinguish three main areas of use of spray varnish.

• Automotive industry. The composition is most often applied to matte paints on plastic and chrome.
• In everyday life. The universal composition can be used to coat various pieces of furniture, accessories, fittings, toys, and add shine to various surfaces, thereby creating works of art.
• Construction sector. Widely used to cover various surfaces.

Application Features

You can use varnishes in cans without having any experience working with them.

It is enough to follow a few simple recommendations.

• Before use, shake the can well for 2-3 minutes. Its internal contents can be sprayed onto the surface if the sound of the ball is clearly heard inside the can.
• Before you begin to coat the surface, the varnish should be sprayed in an inconspicuous place for testing. If the surface to be painted has a black outer layer, then there is no need to worry: appearance the product will not be damaged after spraying.
• The aerosol should be sprayed onto the surface from a distance of about 30 cm; the can should be held vertically.
• Apply the aerosol chemical in an even layer. If necessary, you can apply a second coat of coating, but only after a 10-minute pause.
• If a small amount of varnish is needed to cover the surface and the entire contents of the can have not been used, then the remainder can be left for next time. However, the sprayer needs to be cleaned. To do this, you need to turn the can down and spray until the stream disappears.

Before you start painting, you should study the instructions and then strictly adhere to the basic safety rules:

• when using organic-based varnishes, ventilation is required;
• Do not spray the can near an open fire;
• it is necessary to have special clothing, a mask for respiratory protection, safety glasses, gloves.

Water-based two-component polyurethane varnishes for ABS and PVC plastics PaliPlast UR- are water-based industrial paints and varnishes with excellent atmospheric mechanical and chemical resistance.

PaliPlast UR 5030 lacquer- high gloss two-component water-based polyurethane varnish for plastic.

PaliChem CA 7040 cross- a universal hardener for water-based polyurethane enamels with high chemical and mechanical resistance, a highly viscous transparent solution without odor and foreign inclusions.

Scope and performance properties

Plastic varnish is used for painting ABS and PVC products in industrial environments where special attention is paid to the gloss of the coating or where a protective paint coating is required. The varnish protects products from abrasion and scratches, from the influence of the external environment, and is resistant to detergents.

Decorative properties

Polyurethane varnish on plastic is characterized by exceptional transparency and good flow, which allows you to obtain paint coatings with high-quality decorative properties. The varnish is widely used for multilayer coatings with optical effects; it improves and stabilizes color transmission.

Specifications

Dry residue 35% by weight Density (spec. weight) 1.04 kg/liter Viscosity (DIN 4 at 20 °C) 80-120 sec Consumption 100-120 ml/m² Wet film stability up to 120 µm Gloss level 5-90 y .e. Thinner Water Hazard class No

Painting and technological properties

Varnish for plastic PaliPlast UR 3030 lacquer It is two-component and requires preparation before painting the plastic. Immediately before application, a hardener for glossy varnishes is added to the water-based varnish. PaliChem CA 7040 cross: 20% by weight. The shelf life of the resulting mixture is 2-4 hours. The varnish is applied by spraying and drying can be done at room temperature.

Water-based varnish on plastic is environmentally friendly. There is no smell when applied and dried; the varnish is diluted with water.

One of the most difficult processes in working with polymer clay is varnishing products. Sometimes the varnish doesn’t dry and sticks to everything, sometimes it peels off, sometimes it becomes dull, sometimes it doesn’t shine as desired. And usually choosing the right varnish becomes quite difficult. That's why I want to present you with a very detailed and extensive review of various types varnish

Varnishing of plastic products. Types of varnishes. Varnishing methods. And other useful little things.

Introduction. Varnishing of plastic products is a fairly broad and controversial topic. Well, firstly, you don’t have to varnish your jewelry at all, as long as the sanding and polishing is of sufficient quality. Secondly, some products, due to their aesthetic appeal, do not need to be varnished. But at the same time, keep in mind that white and light-colored products that are not varnished will become very dirty when worn.
And yet, most craftsmen prefer varnishing. This protects the jewelry from abrasion, minor scratches, protects it from the effects of the external environment, gives additional strength and durability, and also improves the appearance of the product - it gives shine or dullness, depending on the choice of varnish.

“Varnish is a liquid capable of producing a transparent, shiny film after drying in a thin layer.

Varnishes are solutions of solids in liquids that can either evaporate or dry; solid substances are personal resins, and liquid solvents are ethyl (wine) and methyl (wood) alcohols, essential and vegetable drying oils. The resin solution applied to the surface to be varnished dries, leaving a thin, transparent and shiny film (in practice called varnish), the properties and qualities of which determine the merits of the varnish taken.

In foreign languages, the words are French. laque, German lak means paint obtained by precipitation of organic paint pigments with metal salts. Such paints are called cormorants in Russian, and the Russian word “varnish”, as a designation of a liquid with the above properties, is translated into English words in Western Europe. varnish, Firniss, fr. vernis." ()

Mineral-based varnishes do not adhere well to a wet surface, most have a strong pungent odor, often take a long time to dry, but at the same time they create a stronger coating than water-based varnishes.

Water-based varnishes have almost no odor, dry faster (most often), but do not adhere well to oily surfaces, sometimes they swell in a humid environment, and the coating turns out to be elastic, as if rubber, and if the layer is slightly damaged, it can be removed like a film from the entire surface. Here is a situation described as an example. However, if you apply a very thin layer of varnish, you most likely will not notice any problems with it. You also need to remember to thoroughly dry the beads coated with water-based varnish. For a day, or better yet two, do not touch or allow water to enter.

Water-based varnish has the advantage that if it thickens, it can be easily diluted with water to the desired consistency. For example, there is a post about how to dilute Sculpey Glaze Gloss. If the “mineral” varnish thickens, you need to dilute it with solvents with great care, because some of them react with plastic. For example, I diluted Fimo “mineral” varnish with medical alcohol. Be sure to read the instructions for the varnish to see how it is diluted, and then try applying a small amount to an unnecessary piece of plastic, and watch for a while to see if there is a reaction.
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Note: There is another option for varnishing plastic products - epoxy. But this rather a theme for a new article, because there is a lot of information on epoxy. Here I will only say that finding the right epoxy is perhaps even more difficult than finding the right varnish. But the surface coated with epoxy turns out to be perfectly “glassy” and very durable. Here's a little information about epoxy for you, author
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Methods of varnishing plastic products.

Note: do not forget to degrease your plastic product before varnishing, especially if you are going to use a water-based varnish. To degrease, you can wash the beads in warm water and soap, or wipe the surface with a cotton swab and alcohol.

1. Dip varnishing.
To do this, put a bead on a toothpick or needle (knitting needle) and dip it in varnish. You take it out and rotate the toothpick with the bead around its axis for a while, thereby allowing the excess varnish to drain and distributing the varnish evenly over the surface. Stick a toothpick into a foam sponge or crumpled foil. After a few minutes, a drop of drained varnish will form on the bead; it must be removed with a soft brush.
But I myself don’t like this method and don’t use it, because... very difficult for me to catch right moment to remove a drop - if you remove it too early, a drop (or influx) will still form; if you are late, the place where you removed the drop may not be leveled, because The varnish has already thickened.
It is much easier for me to varnish products using the second method:

2. Varnishing with a brush. Everything is simple here. Take a brush and evenly “paint” the bead with varnish. Then you also stick a toothpick with a bead into a sponge or foil to dry.
But the choice of brush plays an important role. To ensure that no grooves (tracks) of varnish remain on the surface of the product, you need to choose a soft brush. Which one exactly? Artists often advise using a soft synthetic brush or a “squirrel” or “kolinsky” brush. You can also use a soft nail polish brush.
Note: if your brush is fluffy, then there is a lot of air inside the bristles, and because of this, bubbles may appear on the surface to be varnished. In order to “drive” the air out of the bristles of the brush, it is advised to take a little varnish on the brush and use your fingers (don’t forget to wear gloves) to squeeze the brush for a while. Also, to prevent a lot of air from accumulating inside the bristles, it is recommended to purchase flat brushes rather than round ones.

3. There is another option for varnishing beads - it applies to cases when you have varnish in an aerosol can. At first, this method of varnishing may seem inconvenient to you (as it was in my case), but with a little practice, you will understand that this method is sometimes literally irreplaceable, for example, when you need to varnish a complex surface, with many recesses and protrusions, or when you varnish a painted or tinted surface, etc.
So, varnishing a product with varnish from an aerosol can is very simple: slowly rotate the bead placed on a toothpick with one hand, hold the can in the other, and spray the varnish onto the bead. If you have a flat product, for example, a pendant, then you can put it on a bag or paper, spray it with varnish, wait until it dries, turn it over, and repeat the spraying procedure for the back of the pendant.
The appearance of your coating will depend on the distance from the can to the bead and on the intensity of the varnish jet: if you keep the aerosol away and spray the varnish quite a bit, the surface will have a matte thin coating; If you hold the can closer and make the stream of varnish intense, you will get a smooth, glossy surface. Just do not hold the aerosol close to the bead - then the pressure of the varnish jet will be very strong, and foam with air bubbles may form on the surface. Determine the exact distance you need experimentally, because... aerosol varnishes There are different ones, and accordingly the effects are different. What I told you is based on the practice of using MOTIP car varnish.
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After your product has completely dried, you need to remove it from the toothpick. Remove with a twisting motion, carefully, otherwise the layer of varnish around the toothpick, or the toothpick itself may be damaged. Remove with a twisting motion, carefully, otherwise the layer of varnish around the toothpick may be damaged, or the toothpick itself may break and remain inside the bead.

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Now let's talk

I decided to post to the community some observations, generalizations and, I hope, useful points about the use of varnishes. I hope it's useful.

So:
To protect plastic products from the external environment, it is advisable to coat them with varnish. In addition, works coated with varnish have an additional depth of color.
Unfortunately, not every varnish can be used for coating; some simply do not dry on plastic; others, although they dry, begin to stick after a while.

What varnishes should not be used?

1. Regular nail polishes (with the exception of acrylic, but they are expensive) - they have a completely different formula and can start to stick after some time.
2. Hairsprays - they are not waterproof, and dust likes to settle on them.
3. Acrylic varnishes, universal, which are sold in office supplies - they are the ones that often do not dry on plastic.

What varnishes are guaranteed to be suitable for polymer plastic?
1. Specialized, from manufacturers of polymer plastics
from the manufacturer Sculpey water-based (glossy on the left, matte on the right)

from the manufacturer Fimo water-based (left) and mineral-based (center and right)

2. Water-based acrylic coating for wooden floors. Often they also write “polyurethane-acrylic” on the cans.
Examples -
varnish Varathane Crystal Clear Waterbone- water-based coating for floor treatment, transparent, without yellowing, durable, highly durable, non-toxic. It happens - glossy / matte / semi-matte.

And Future Floor Finish. These two products have been tested by a whole generation of polymer scientists.

If it is not possible to buy Varathane or Future Floor Finish, you can look at any other similar coating for wooden floors in a hardware store. The main thing is to pay attention that the varnish does not contain latex - it is not friendly with plastic.
For Osinki in Germany - I found an analogue in OBI - Classic Klarlack. It is, of course, more expensive than Varathane, but the composition is similar and cheaper than special branded coatings for plastic.

What to do if you still bought the “wrong” varnish and it starts to stick?
You can try baking the product in the oven at a temperature of 110-130 degrees for 10-15 minutes if the varnish was water-based.
If this does not help and the product still sticks, then you need to wipe off the layer of sticky varnish with acetone, wash with soap and water, dry and apply a new layer of “correct” varnish.

Some subtleties
You can often hear that even good varnishes they begin to stick, peel off like a film, or chip.
What could be the reason?
1. The product was not baked for enough time, the plastic was not completely polymerized and the plasticizer reacted with the varnish. To eliminate this reason, you need to finish baking the product, without even removing the varnish layer.
2. There was too much plasticizer in the plastic and a thin oily film formed on the surface of the product after baking, which prevents strong contact of the plastic surface with the varnish. St. Petersburg plastic has this property to the highest degree. What to do? - wipe the surface of the product with alcohol before applying varnish and/or wash with dishwashing detergent. By the way, a fatty film can also appear from frequent contact of the baked product with your hands, especially if you have previously worked with raw plastic.
3. The first coat of varnish was not dried sufficiently before applying the next one. Some polishes appear dry within 10-15 minutes of application; in fact, many polishes take several hours to dry completely.
4. If you apply varnish immediately after sanding, without removing any remaining dust, then the varnish will fall not on the surface of the plastic, but on the dust “pillows”. Over time, during the use of the product, this can cause pieces of varnish to chip off in these very places. Therefore, after sanding, if polishing is not intended, it is advisable to wipe the surface of the plastic with a damp cloth and dry before applying varnish.