Braided belt in Russian folk style. DIY braided belt

I decided to do detailed description of my experience in the form of a photo lesson only because on sites dedicated to this method everything is somehow written very superficially and it’s not easy to figure it out on your own. Moreover, using the example of a headband with a simple swastika ornament, and not with some incomprehensible design.

Let's weave a necklace

1. Not everyone can make 3mm wooden plates. Sometimes they offer to make them from plastic bank cards or beer cup holders. But I think it's not best theme for weaving amulet symbols.

Therefore, I propose a simpler approach to this problem:

Take ordinary A4 cardboard - draw it into 9 rectangular parts (7 by 8 cm), laminate the sheet and then cut it into these 9 rectangles. For ease of weaving, I advise you to cut the cards as evenly as possible. And do this just in case (if you ever have to weave a belt) 5-6 sheets, i.e. there will be 45-54 cards. Although I needed 60 cards for the bass guitar strap. I just repeat, first draw it out and then laminate it. But not like I did: first I laminated it, and then tried to draw it on the slippery laminate. Then use a hole punch to punch 4 holes, but not in the perimeter of the rectangle, but in the form of a square about 5 by 5 cm. It is advisable to use a sharp hole punch because so that the inside of the holes in the card is smooth, without any debris. And then slightly dull the sharp corners of the card. Then, as shown in the photo, number each card with a red and black marker. Of course, over time, the corners of the cards get lost, and the laminate comes off a little, but there are enough of these to weave headbands for a large family and friends. And then you can just glue these corners.

2. Threads with less lint are best suited for this type of weaving. I use Iris. It is convenient to put balls of thread in plates and place them on the floor to your left.

3. On the Internet you can see many different special designs for such weaving. But this is probably good for those who do it professionally. I have a different method, the essence of which is to make do with what is in almost every home. Vise, desk, clamp, clothespins and 2 combs. I secure the front tail in a vice with a comb, and wrap the rear tail around a clamp. And the weaving does not take place in the air (as in the original), but on the table.

4. Secure the vice 13-15cm from the edge of the table and firmly clamp the comb in it.

5. Place card number 1 face up. Now we cut 2 pieces of red thread and 2 pieces of white thread. The length of my table is 1 m, and therefore I take the length of the threads to be 1 m 80 cm. Now we thread the threads into the holes of the card: threads of the color with which you want to make the background of the headband (red) are threaded into the front 2 holes, and threads of the color of the ornament (white) are threaded into the back ones.

In order for the fabric of the headband not to be “moved” (curved plane), it is necessary to thread all the threads into odd cards from the top, and into all even cards, thread the threads from the bottom of the card. Or vice versa. In general, it is important to alternate the method of pulling

6. All the threads are drawn from above. Red threads (background) are in front, and white threads (ornament) are behind. Now fold the front ends of the 4 threads together and tie them into a knot.

8. All the threads are drawn from below.

9. Now we fix the second knot in the comb next to the first, and place the second card on the first.

10. And so we do all 19 cards (not forgetting to alternate the method of pulling the threads).

11. Since the centering of all the cards is now slightly higher than the table, you need to put some kind of backing (2-3cm) under them. In general, after pulling the threads onto the clamp, you yourself will determine the height of the backing that is necessary so that the cards do not dangle in the air.

12. Now on the sides so that the cards are in a horizontal position, place them with books 1-2 cm from them, i.e. Do not clamp the cards, but simply so that they do not fall.

13. Now fasten the clamp on the other edge of the table so that its shaft is in the center of the row of knots on the comb. You can simply measure with a centimeter.

14. Since one of important conditions If the quality of weaving is good, there is good tension and no loosening of the threads, then you need to comb the entire back tail well. You need to comb especially well the section of thread from the cards and 20-30 cm behind the clamp. Do not use a thick comb. Pull tightly, but of course so as not to break the comb.

15. Make 4-5 turns and secure with clothespins. Remove books from cards.

16. Make this “chip” from the remaining laminated cardboard and wind the threads on it that you use as the background of the headband, i.e. red. It will be a DUCK. In other matters, ducks can be made at any time, and not right now. For example, before threading cards.

17. If necessary, tighten the threads with wire to a width of no more than 22-25 mm. Secure the beginning of the threads with some dies. For example, I have oak dies. In essence, there is no particular need for these dies now, but I, for example, like it when the first woven row rests on something.

18. Now place the weft between the top and bottom threads, and “tap” it to the dies with a ruler.

19. Now we proceed directly to weaving.
To do this, using the GTT program, I created my own headband program for 19 cards:

I deliberately did not write 2, 4, etc. rows because they are done exactly with the previous one, i.e. 2nd as 1st, 4th as 3rd, 6th as 5th, etc.

At the beginning, all the cards are arranged so that the red numbering is at the top.

20. We rotate the 1st and 2nd cards 90 degrees clockwise.

21. Then from the 3rd to the 11th we also turn 90 degrees counterclockwise. Then from 12 to 14 clockwise. From 15 to 17 counterclockwise. And 18 from 19 clockwise.

A small digression:
It is common practice to make square cards rather than rectangular ones. But I prefer rectangular ones because... Let's say, when you are doing some line and you are distracted, for example by a phone or something else, then sitting down at the table again, you immediately see where you stopped because... Due to the rectangular shape of the cards, you can see which ones stand horizontally and which ones stand vertically.

22. First, we tap the weave with our fingers.

23. Then we press it with a ruler. We remove the ruler.

24. Then we place the weft between the top and bottom threads, again take the ruler, press the weft with it, and do not stretch it too much, i.e. all the way and no more. It is necessary to pull the wefts with the same force throughout the weaving of the fringe so that the width of the fringe is the same and does not narrow or widen in different places. Well, this experience will come with time.

25. Now we make the second line, i.e. We exactly repeat all the turns of the cards on the first line. And after that, also, we tap the fingers of our palms - a ruler - we lay out the weft, pressing it with a ruler.

26. Now all the cards are again in a horizontal position, but with black numbering at the top.

27. Next we make line 3:
from 1 to 8 we turn counterclockwise, from 9 to 11 clockwise, 12-14 counterclockwise, 15-17 clockwise, and 18-19 counterclockwise. Well, then, as before: we beat it with our fingers - with a ruler - we lay out the weft - we pull it and press it with a ruler. And then we make the 4th line, i.e. repeat 3rd. And don't forget to lay the wefts.

28. And this is how we do it until the 12th line (which, I remind you, is a repetition of the 11th).

29. Here we went through the entire program for the first time and received the first rotifer. When we started the first line, all our cards had red numbers on top and ducks to the right of the fringe. Now, before executing the program a second time, we should again have red numbering at the top and ducks on the right. In general, sometimes check the color of the numbering of all cards. Before completing the 1st, 5th, 9th lines, all cards must be red numbered at the top. And before the 3rd, 7th and 11th - black. If any card has the wrong color on top, then you made a mistake. Therefore, we must return urgently, i.e. unravel and locate the location of the error. And it’s not easy to unravel, i.e. you need to go from the stopping place and turn over all the cards back to the direction indicated. In general, unraveling and discovering a mistake without experience is usually a thriller, where “Alien” takes a rest. Often, while untangling, the student gets confused again, and ends up taking scissors and cutting everything up. And he gives up this creativity altogether. Therefore, I advise you to be very careful. At first, I don’t even recommend listening to music because... she can be distracting.

30. In general, in this way, we make 6-7 kolovrat, i.e. In fact, we go through the entire program 6-7 times. Due to the increase in the length of the woven section, the tension force of the threads increases, and each new Kolovrat turns out to be slightly longer than the previous one. But this is not scary, because... after soaking the headband in water, it will “sit down” and all the rotors will be leveled out.

31. We furnish the cards (as before, 1-2 cm from the cards) with books.

32. Untie the tail from the clamp. Naturally, after weaving, the tail became intertwined. Therefore, separating a group of threads from each card from the rest of the bundle, we unravel it.

33. We move the cards along with the backing and books closer to the vice. Release the comb. And we clamp part of the woven section in a vice between the wooden dies.

34. Then, pulling the back tail of the threads with your left hand, with your right hand we move the backing with cards and books away from the vice, i.e. to its original place (middle of the table).

35. Now, as before, we begin to carefully comb the tail of the threads, and first of all the area from the cards and up to 20-30 cm behind the clamp. And again we wrap it around the clamp and secure the tail with clothespins. We put away the books. Using a ruler, we press down the one that has weakened during the process of rearranging the wefts. And then we make another 6-7 kolovrat.

36. And in this way you need to make the desired length of the headband. Which one is needed? Measure the circumference of your head and add 9-10 cm. This is necessary because... After washing, the weaving “shrinks” by about 4-5 cm and plus 4-5 cm in the whip. For an “average” head length you need about 27-28 Kolovrat.

“Fly a leaf to the east onto the chest of a white man who is dear to my heart and I give it as a souvenir”- red, white, blue threads twist, intertwine, twist, these simple, but words of immense hope appear on the narrow bright canvas...

“Untie your belt, give way to the earth!”

There are few moments when folk clothes were unbelted, and all of them were extraordinary.

Conspiracy with otherworldly forces

Closing around the belly ( life) a person, the vest protected him from all evil - emanating from people, elements, otherworldly forces. But there were cases when a person, of his own free will, removed the amulet and opened up.

• The Russian shirt turned out to be unbelted when the owner went to look for treasure, to extract fern color on Kupala night - the treasures were not opened in any other way, the fern did not show a flower.
• The girl, wanting to recognize her betrothed, took off her belly shirt, put it under her pillow at night, saying: “My belt, belt, show the groom and the train.”
• In some provinces they believed that woven "one day" a sash made from the remnants of flax, which must be worn alone over clothing, allows you to see all your deceased relatives on Radunitsa (Parents' Day, Tuesday of St. Thomas Week).
• The young woman, entering the room for her first wedding night after the wedding and feast, takes off her wedding belt and throws it on the stove (according to another version, this is done by the husband) - this is how she entrusts herself to the owner of the house, the brownie, and her husband, recognizing the latter as complete master over her belly (life).

In ordinary life, only sorcerers, werewolves, and witches did not girdle themselves, so as not to trap themselves and lose their strength.

Childbirth, pregnancy

Folk dresses did not imply frequent changes: the woman gave birth in whatever she was wearing and where she was - in the field, in the meadow, in the barnyard, in the hut. Often the birth was difficult, then they untied the sash and vest from the woman in labor, and unraveled her braids. The women who were present during childbirth and helped the midwife did the same.

It happens that even now, when sending a daughter or granddaughter to give birth, they order her to let down her hair, undo buttons, and untie ties if they end up on her clothes.

And in distant Siberian villages, some old women healers still treat infertility by forcing a boy to tie a sash on a woman. You need to wear it constantly: they say it helps.

However, it is better for the woman herself to make such belts for pregnancy, for the birth of a child. Therefore, below we will tell you how to weave a lace in the most in a simple way- twitching.

We weave a thin belt - under the body, for a Russian sundress or blouse - on the fingers

The twitching technique is the simplest and most ancient of all the many that are now known.

• To weave a strong cord, take 5 threads of the same thickness, the same color or multi-colored, 2 times longer than the future product.
• The threads are folded in half, the free ends are collected in a bundle, securely fastened to something at chest level, the loops are put on the fingers - the index, middle, ring of the right hand; middle and index - left (Figure A).
• The free working finger is the left ring finger. They grab the loop from the right index finger and pull it through other loops on the right hand (Figure B).
• Now there are 2 loops on the right. They are transferred to the index and middle finger, freeing the ring finger, which becomes a worker and performs the same manipulations as the ring finger of the left hand - in a mirror.

…You can talk a lot about belts: how they were tied, woven, decorated, how much a girl was supposed to make before marriage, which one to go with a wedding suit, how to protect livestock and home with their help. If these stories seem interesting to you, we will definitely return to them.

I would like to add one thing: studying architecture and aesthetics folk costume, its smallest details, you are convinced of the extraordinary wisdom of our ancestors, in the obvious possession of amazing knowledge that we have yet to revive and assimilate.

For many centuries, the belt was among the first items of clothing. Almost all nations in their national costumes have a belt. It was not simply used to support certain parts of clothing or for decoration. The belt had a meaning in traditional folk rituals, this is especially true for the Eastern Slavs, for whom the belt was the main component of both men's and women's clothing.

The belt served as a talisman for its owner. In Rus', parting with a belt against one's will was a terrible disaster or even punishment for any person. It was believed that the belt not only protected the owner, but also gave him physical strength. The belts were different: woven, woven from threads or even bast. They were woven from wool and linen threads.

Photo from above - Altuzarra
Photo below - Altuzarra and Brock Collection

The woven belt still remains, only now an object of fashion. Braided belts using the macrame technique or made from rope with many knots look especially expressive and stylish. Due to the fact that fashion has seriously turned to things made in the very in simple form, where you can clearly see traces manual labor, and without much care, rope belts turned out to be quite remarkable in the latest spring-summer 2019 collections.

Some are wondering what to make a rope belt out of, and many fashionistas have picked up this trend and made belts from clothesline. They look fun and funny. For those unfamiliar with the macrame technique, now is the time to learn a thing or two and make your own rope belt. There are different ones.

Chloe

Luxurious accessories are obtained using a crochet hook, there is fork knitting, macrame, bobbin weaving, and there is simply knitting without the use of any special devices - knitting on fingers, and there can be several ways. Therefore, you have the opportunity to show your imagination in an exciting and completely uncomplicated job and weave a rope belt to your favorite dress.

You can see the new looks with rope belts that designers have prepared for us in the 2019 season. The belt can be woven from wool, nylon, linen, cotton threads, rope, braid, ribbons, leather, the ends can be decorated with pompoms and tassels.

Claudia Li, Etro

Knitted or woven belts have long had a certain meaning, symbolizing tireless adherence to specific rules. By the way, the knots on the belt and their number also have a secret meaning.

But everything that concerns the belt, both in the Bible and in folk traditions there is a desire for piety, integrity, fidelity and other good intentions. Make your own belt and let it be a symbol of modesty, chastity, protection and decoration for you.

One of the most ancient types of weaving is weaving on planks. It appeared much earlier than the loom, at the beginning of our era. Perhaps its roots come from ancient Egypt. The dawn of this technique occurs in the Middle Ages in the regions of Scandinavia and England. The Anglo-Saxons and Vikings wove beautiful cords and braids on planks, which they then used to decorate their clothes. Archaeological excavations indicate that this method of needlework was mastered by masters different countries. So, at one time, tablets were discovered in China, Norway, Germany, and Sweden. The peoples who have long inhabited the territory of the modern Leningrad region had various types hand weaving - weaving on planks, on reeds, on threads.

Weaving on planks is an ethnographic term. In ancient times, tablets could be made of wood, leather, horn and even metal. For example, in Novgorod, such devices were made from bone. Wooden planks were used for weaving belts in various regions of Russia until the beginning of the 20th century.

This is a very ancient type of weaving, it is a technology of transition from weaving, from twisting ropes to weaving.

Woven belts in Russian costume

A mandatory element of both women's and men's peasant costumes has always been a belt. Walking without a belt, “unbelting” was considered a great sin and indecency. The belt in ancient Russian costume played a sacred meaning and served as a talisman. IN at different ages people wore different belts. For a child, just a twisted cord was enough; for teenagers, girls and boys, these were thicker belts, twisted from a larger number of threads with some kind of simple pattern. Then, with age, the belt became wider. And then, the most beautiful, most elegant belt was the swear belt, made for a wedding. Or a prayer woven on a belt or dedicated to a specific person.

Belts differ in technology, ornamentation, and color scheme.

On the belts were woven insignia of the clan, preferences in choosing the future, or some statements. A belt is a mandatory part of a costume in Rus'. It was a kind of amulet for its owner.

The belt was put on the child right at birth, thereby, as it were, tying him to this life. Of course, it was just a thread spun with a slander. As the child grew, the type of belt changed as he grew older.

Preparing to weave a belt

Nowadays, this long-forgotten Russian craft has begun to gradually revive. It is usually used to make belts, ribbons or braids with various patterns. Such ribbons are used for decorating clothing, haberdashery, and also for home interiors.

Mastering this craft does not require complex or expensive tools. The main thing is desire and simple tools.

As tools we use a belt, a knife for nailing the weft, scissors, woolen, half-woolen, linen or silk threads, which must be previously woven (wound).

The length of the thread depends on what kind of product you want to weave. This is the length of the product plus one third of the length.

There are several types of drawings. There are threading belts, that is, colored threads are threaded into each board in a certain way and with the constant rotation of these boards all the time in one direction or at a certain frequency. For example, six turns in one direction, then six turns in the other. This way a certain pattern is obtained.

Belts in Rus' were made using different technologies, for example, using the bran technique. Or simply weaving laces, there were many different types hand weaving belts.

There are two techniques for weaving on planks. Embedding, where the pattern is obtained from the arrangement of colored threads when threading. And the transfer technique, when the drawing is obtained by changing places of the boards.

So, let's move on to weaving. To do this, you need to make special boards. These are squares with a side of 6 cm made of thin plywood, thick cardboard or plastic. Holes are made in the corners of the squares. It is best to number all the boards and each hole. The holes are numbered clockwise.

The squares need to be made with smooth edges and the corners cut off so that when turning, our threads do not cling to them.

In addition, you need a shuttle. I make it from the same cardboard. The weft is wound around it.

The width of the resulting product depends on the number of threads used and their thickness. The more threads, the wider the belt.

In my article I will talk about typesetting technology.

Weaving

4 threads are inserted into each board. They can be the same color and different colors.

For weaving with ornaments in some planks, we will thread the threads only into two holes, those located diagonally.

So let's begin.

We choose the pattern we will weave with. We have one like this.

It requires threads of two colors. It is desirable that they be contrasting.

The edges of the product, as a rule, are made of the same color, threading the threads into all four holes. The middle, patterned part is made on boards threaded with two threads of different colors. For our drawing we need 8 boards with four threads and 10 boards with two threads (from now on I will call them patterned). We insert threads of the same color into regular boards, and two colors into patterned boards.

Let's start threading the threads. To begin with, take strings about a meter long. According to our drawing, you need to fill it as follows. In the first, third and fourth - 4 light threads, in the second - 4 dark threads. In the next 10 boards we insert one dark and one light thread into the holes located diagonally. And then in two boards - four light threads, in one - 4 dark threads and in the last - 4 light threads.

Now we collect the boards in a pile. We fold it so that along the top there are threads of the color needed in the design. Our simple boards are located along the edges, and the patterned ones are arranged so that dark threads run along the top. This is how the threads are arranged for the first row.

In general, at the beginning of the belt I always weave several rows without a pattern, just in stripes. And only then I start drawing.

We wind the ducks onto the shuttle. It is better to take it in the same color as the main thread, but you can take it thinner. Mine is light.

We fold the edges of all the threads evenly and tie a knot. We tie a lace or rope to this knot. This will be the beginning of our work. We fix the second end to something stationary. We tie a belt around ourselves just above the waist and tie a cord to it. The weaving threads must be well tensioned. When we stretch the threads, a hole is formed between the upper and lower threads - the pharynx. We will insert a weft thread into this shed.

Carefully turn all the planks 90 degrees towards you. The threads change places. And you can again insert wefts into the throat. It doesn't need to be tightened too much, but it shouldn't hang loose either.

In order for us to get the required pattern, we need to constantly monitor which threads we have on top. Simple planks always rotate 90 degrees, but patterned ones must be rotated depending on the pattern.

By turning a couple of patterned boards along with the simple ones 90 degrees twice, we thereby leave the first color at the top. But at the next turn it should go down. Therefore, we look at the drawing: if, according to the pattern, the weft should go down at the next insertion, then we turn this pair of planks as usual, 90 degrees.. If we see that this color should remain at the top in this place, then we turn the board 270 degrees, i.e. three-quarters of a turn, so that desired color found himself at the top again. And we do this with all pairs of patterned boards, strictly following the pattern. And don’t forget to lay wefts after each turn.

If you have to interrupt work, you must fix the boards in the position in which they were at the end of the work. You can secure them with a rubber band or a large pin, threading it through the holes on the boards. Then, starting work after a break, you will not confuse the drawing.

The more pairs of patterned boards, the wider and more complex the pattern that can be made on them. There is only one indispensable condition - smooth stripes must be placed along the edges of the pattern, made on ordinary boards. And the ornaments themselves can be taken in a variety of different ways.

To make the drawing clear, you need to be very careful. Each flaw will be clearly visible on the product. The first time it will work out slowly, over time, with practice, the work will move faster and easier.

Now, in the age of modern technology, many craftswomen weave belts on planks using special devices that allow the weaver not to become attached to her creation. These are something like this.

I hope I explained and showed the whole process clearly enough. And if you take up this task, it will give you a lot of pleasant moments and the result will please you.

Good luck to you, dear readers! Share your achievements in the comments.