Crochet lessons. Summer hat and classic beret

We knit 1 air. loop. We knit another 6 air into it. loops

Next, we knit tightly in the circle with half-columns so that we get a round cap of the required diameter and depth. (For the convenience of this procedure, I usually use auxiliary objects at hand - balls, beads).
In my case, this is a bead with a diameter of 2 cm. I tie it around the middle or slightly below (but without decreasing the loops).

We get a round cap.
We will make the brim of the hat with Tunisian knitting - it seems to me that it is most similar to straw weaving and allows us to shape the brim of the hat beautiful shape. In general, I like it better this way.
I offer first a detailed verbal description, and then a diagram (please do not panic that there is so much, when you understand this principle, everything will be done almost automatically). Everything is not as difficult as it seems.
So.
From the resulting cap we knit 5 air. loops

From each loop we knit another 1 ch. + 1 v.p. from the base loop (“we dive” into the same cap loop from which we “grow” a chain of 5 loops) = 6 loops on the hook.

We knit the resulting loops in pairs.

Add 1 more chain stitch to the resulting row.

From each vertical loop from the resulting row we knit 1 more loop each + 1 loop from the base (next) = 7 loops on the hook.
We knit them again in pairs and add 1 ch.

In the same way, add 1 loop at the end of each row until 11 loops are formed on the hook.
In this case we used 6 warp loops.
We knit this row, but do not add a loop at the end.

Now we cast on loops so that 7 loops are formed on the hook (i.e., everything is as usual, only not to the end of the row, as before, but a little more than half).
We also knit in pairs.
We put 11 loops on the hook again: (from the short row, and the missing ones from the previous 11-loop row) and 1 warp loop (from the same warp loop as the first 11-loop row). We knit.

The numbers indicate the number of loops on the hook. Green is our “rise”, blue and light blue are the entire field around the cap.
Our rows of 7 loops allowed us to achieve “romantic” curves and “wavy” brims of the hat.
But if you need more of these “bends”, simply between 11-loop rows you can knit not only a row of 7 stitches, but also one more row, for example, of 5 loops.
If you want to get straight flat fields, on the contrary, remove the rows of 7 loops, leaving only 11-loop rows.
Now the next stage is to reduce the diameter of the fields. The principle applies - in one warp loop - 1 row.
We also cast on 11 loops. We knit in pairs. But when there are 3 loops left on the hook (and not 2 as usual), we knit them all together.

We close this row: we do not pull out all the loops at once onto the hook, but one at a time and knit each of them in pairs with the one on the hook. So, we are at the starting point.
Now we’ll tie it around the edge with half-columns or another decorative type of knitting, for example, with teeth... You can knit a thin wire - then it will be easy to bend the fields in the desired way (in the photo - without wire).

And - to the decor!

It is in this way (using wire along the contour) that my Owl’s hat is knitted.

I wish you good luck and creative success!

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Thread - begonia, hook 2.1. 1 skein was enough.
I'll try to write how I knitted (from memory)
I knitted a strip around the circumference of my head from loin mesh(4 rows) - in a circle - the bandage turned out like this
Then I attached the thread and knitted the strip on top with fillet. I tried it on my daughter. The holes were large. I tied them with fans, but at the same time adjusted the pattern so that it did not expand, but vice versa
Fields:
When moving to the brim, I knitted 1 row of sc (I always knit 2-3 rows of sc, but here I didn’t knit it and the hat doesn’t fit so tightly to the head - I did this deliberately so that the hat would be looser at sea)
then 3 rows of arches from 5th century. p.
And then fans according to your favorite pattern
Then I tied a double ring of regilina sc, then in a crawfish step.

Hat “Little Lady”

Diagram of the bottom and crown for exhaust gas 49-50 cm.

My yarn

My connected 13 rows of the bottom:

Up to the 13th row inclusive, we knit the same for all sizes.
* * *
ATTENTION:
When knitting a pattern in those places where we stick the hook into the post, it is advisable to use the “deep” sticking method. The hook must be inserted not under the two upper half-loops of the column, but into the body of the column itself. This method will not allow the pattern to shift when we knit with the crown.
* * *
Starting from the 15th row for all sizes we knit according to the pattern. Repeat rows 15-20 two more times.
They differ from the 15-20th only in the last row. Instead of a dc, I knitted a sc.
We also knit rows 33-38 according to the pattern.
38th row - RLS in each column.
The fields start from the 39th row.

We finish with the CROWN and insert the FIRST regelin equal to the circumference of the head. I made one vein. This is where we complete the work of the RLS. Steam.

We knit the BRIMS of the hat.
In the 39th row we make increases in every 3rd column,
In the 45th row - every 4th, in the 51st - every 5th.
The point is that in each row with increases you need to add 56 CH (7 reports). That is, in the 39th 168/56 = 3, in the 45th (168+56)/56 = 4, etc.

STRENGTHENING FIELDS.

After the last row of fields is knitted, they need to be steamed well.
On a horizontal table surface, the fields should have the shape of a flat circle.

We take the SECOND regilin (TWO veins at once) and tie it with RLS. The length of regilin is not measured in advance!!! They just cut off the excess later.
We straighten the fields well.
Let's steam!
We tie the same row of RLS again. And we tie the last row with a “crawfish step” through the post.
On a plane, the fields should still be shaped like a flat circle.
Once again we steam the fields with an iron through a damp cloth!!!.
To add rigidity, I used SALVITOSE, which is used in felting.
Air dried.

DECORATION.
It must be removable - on a pin or button.

Knitting daisies is very easy.
Dial a chain of 2 v. p. In the first of them, knit 8 half-stitches and close them in a circle in the 1st half-stitch.

When the whole chamomile is ready, tie each of its petals in succession with connecting posts. This will allow them to keep their shape and not curl.

For the centers of the daisies, make small pom-poms using a regular dinner fork.

We wrap thread around the teeth of the fork. Then we tie it with an additional thread in the middle, remove it from the fork and tighten the knot. Then fluff and trim. Sew to the center of the daisy.

Two daisies are small, and one is slightly larger. For it, the scheme is the same, only for the petals we dial not 7, but 9 v. p.

I made a decoration on a button clasp for bags.
We will need a button and a knitted circle - this is what the daisies will be sewn on:

In finished form:

We attach the button to the hat

Scheme (for petals only):

Designations: the sketched dots on the diagram are the loop that is on the hook; the numbers in brackets are the number of loops that we pull from the connected column (to make it easier to count loops)

Blind (connecting) loop

I knit from Soso threads (50g=240m) with a regular hook No. 1.5 (without a handle)

Step by step photo process:
1. We knit 6 single crochets into a sliding loop

tighten the thread and close it in a circle.

2. grabbing only back half loops we knit 11 single crochets (1 sc in the first half and 2 sc in the subsequent ones), connect in a circle.

Half loops of a smaller circle will be needed for the upper petals.

3. We knit arches for the lower petals: cast on 5 air loops (c), skip 3 loops of the circle, fasten to the fourth; repeat 2 more times, fasten the last arch into the loop from which the first arch was knitted.

4. We begin to knit the first lower petal: Cast on 4 sts. p. If you turn the knitting a little, the back (purl) jumpers will be visible

there is one loop on the hook (shaded point in the diagram), we pull out one loop at a time from the purl jumpers (4 sticks), we pull the last one out from under the arch (outermost stick)

there should be 6 loops on the hook

5. Close the row: grab the working thread and knit loops in pairs on the hook (grab the working thread and pull it through 2 loops, grab the working thread and pull it through the next 2 loops). We have the first row (connected column)

6. If you turn the knitting a little, the purl jumpers will be visible,

We knit one in. p.; we pull out the loops from the purl jumpers (1 on the hook + 5 from the jumpers + 1 from under the arch = 7 loops).

We close the row in pairs.

7. Next, we begin to cut the loops. In the sixth row, we begin knitting from a blind loop (insert the hook into the first jumper, grab the working thread and pull it through the loop on the hook). from further jumpers we pull out a loop and the last one from under the arch

We close the row in pairs.

To finish the first lower petal, we knit a blind loop into each purl jumper, and one under the arch

We make one blind loop in the next arch and begin to knit the second lower petal in the same way as the first. After you tie all three arches, it will look like this

To move to the upper petals, make 1 in. p insert the hook into half the loop of the small circle and knit a blind loop

On a small circle you need to tie 3 arches from 4 in. p (2 arches for petals and 1 for the core)

8. Dial 5 v. p and knit the first connection. upper petal column

First upper petal:

Two petals

We tie the upper petals with single crochets (I laid thin wire along the contour to better hold their shape). The lower petals were tied with stbn (without wire). It turned out like this

Sew on beads, maybe small beads, and admire

Starching caps

1. Wash the cap in warm water (30-40 degrees). I use bleach to wash my white hats. washing powder, for colored - powder for colored things.

2. Prepare the starch. To do this, pour 2 tablespoons of starch into a bowl and dilute it with 1/2 cup of cold water (to avoid the formation of lumps). Then pour boiling water, about 1 - 1.5 liters, stirring constantly. The mixture should be thick and transparent. Leave to cool.

4. To dry the hats, I use ordinary inflatable balls, after inflating them to the right size.

5. During the drying process, I periodically give the brim the desired shape, and iron the brim of the openwork caps through a layer of fabric.

MORE HATS AND FLOWERS WITH THEM WITH DIAGRAMS

click on the picture to enlarge

In the comments I was asked to prepare a master class on a hat. They asked for a hat for Gotz dolls, but first I prepared a description of how to knit a hat for Paola Reina dolls, because it’s faster, and I’ve had this kind of hat for a long time and tested it many times. However, in this article I will give recommendations on how to knit such a hat for other dolls. The hat is knitted very simply, and it can be classified as a product for beginner knitters.

This hat can complement almost any summer outfit. I added a hat to the sundress according to MK Oksana Lifenko:

Rear view:

And I gave the same hat to the Jamie doll from the Mini Pal Maru and Friends line:

For knitting we will need Coco Vita Cotton yarn (50 g = 240 m) and a 1.3 mm crochet hook. There is one simple secret to how to make a hat keep its shape without wire frame and starching, you need to take a thicker yarn and a thinner hook and knit as tightly and tightly as possible, as tight as you can. That’s why I use Soso yarn for the Paola Reina doll, and for Gotz dolls I use Lily yarn and a 1.5 mm hook.

You can start knitting this hat model for any doll with any head circumference, because the pattern of the bottom of the hat can be expanded indefinitely, following the algorithm of increases in the rows.

Conditional abbreviations:

VP - air loop,

Dc - double crochet,

RLS - single crochet,

PSBN - half single crochet (in this case, a connecting column).

We start knitting from the center of the bottom of the hat.

1st row: close 3 VPs into a ring using PSBN, 2 VPs, 13 SSNs into a ring of 3 VPs, PSBN into the second VP lift.

We start each row, except the last one, with two lifting chain stitches, they replace the first double crochet. And we finish each row by performing a connecting half double crochet into the second lifting chain stitch.

2nd row: 3 VP, (Dc in the next loop, 1 VP) * repeat the combination in brackets until the end of the row, i.e. a total of 13 times, connecting PSBN to the second lifting VP.

Actually, according to the rules of crocheting a circle with double crochets, you need to make 12 increases in each row, and if you knit with single crochets, then 6 increases in each row. But I deviated a little from the rules, so in each row the total number of loops is a multiple of 7, and not six, as is customary when knitting a circle. I had to do this taking into account my tight knitting density, so that the circle would turn out to be a flat pancake, and not a curved segment of a sphere.

3rd row: 2 VP, 2 Dc in the arch formed between the lifting loops and the first Dc of the previous row, (Dc in the next loop, 2 Dc in the arch from 1 VP of the previous row) * repeat until the end of the row, i.e. 13 times, connecting PSBN to the second lifting VP.

When knitting a hat, we will alternate solid rows, consisting only of double crochets, and rows with holes, consisting of double crochets and chain loops separating them. All odd rows are solid, and all even rows are openwork, with holes.

Row 4: 3 VP, 1 Dc, 1 VP, (skip 1 loop of the previous row, 1 Dc, 1 VP, 1 Dc, 1 VP)* repeat the combination in brackets until the end of the row, i.e. 13 times, connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

5 row: 2 VP, 2 Dc in the arch formed between the lifting loops and the first Dc of the previous row, 1 Dc in the column of the previous row, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, (1 Dc in the next column of the previous row, 2 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the column of the previous row, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP) * repeat until the end of the row, i.e. 13 times, connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

Row 6: 3 VP, 1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop, 1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop, (1 Dc, 1 VP, 1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop, 1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop)* Repeat the combination in brackets until the end of the row, i.e. 13 times, connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

7th row: 2 VP, 2 Dc in the arch formed between the lifting loops and the first Dc of the previous row, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, ( 1 Dc in the next column, 2 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP)* repeat the combination in brackets until the end of the row , i.e. 13 times, connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

After the seventh row, the bottom of the hat is finished; its diameter at this stage should be in the range of 6.8 - 7.3 cm. If you get less, then the hat will not fit on the head of the Paola Reina doll, and if it is larger, then the doll’s head will be in hat dangling. However, if your diameter is larger, but only slightly, then the hat will fit on the head of a minush doll.

Let's move on to knitting the crown.

Starting from the eighth row, we will no longer make increases, the number of loops in each row will remain unchanged, and this number = 98.

Row 8: 3 VP, skip 1 loop, (1 Dc, 1 VP, skip 1 loop)* repeat to the end of the row 48 times, 1 connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

Row 9: 2 VP, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, (1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP)* repeat until the end of the row 48 times, 1 connecting sc in the second lifting loop.

Row 10: repeat row 8.

Row 11: repeat row 9.

Row 12: repeat row 8.

Row 13: repeat row 9.

Row 14: repeat row 8.

At this stage, the knitting of the crown is over; the height of the crown from the beginning of the 8th row to the end of the 14th row is 2.8 cm.

The circumference of the hat around the head (external size) should be 24 cm.

Knitting hat brim.

Our brim will not be a flat pancake like the bottom, but will form a truncated cone, that is, it will be located slightly at an angle; this shape of the hat seems to me more successful. In order for the fields to be inclined, we will have to make increases not according to the circle expansion algorithm. Using scientific research, I selected an extension method for this specific case, and this technique has proven itself well; as a result, my hats are beautifully shaped.

15 row: 2 VP lifting, 2 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, (1 Dc in the next column, 2 Dc in the arch of 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 dc in the arch of 1 ch)* repeat until the end of the row 23 times, 1 hdc in the second lifting loop.

Row 16: 3 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 VP, skip a loop, 1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop, (1 Dc, 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 VP, skip a loop, 1 Dc in the next column)* repeat the combination in brackets 23 times, 1 dc in the next column, 1 ch, connecting psc in the second lifting loop.

17th row: 2 VP lifting, one DC in each arch of 1 VP and in each column of the previous row to the end of the row, connecting PSBN in the second lifting loop. You should get 145 CCHs and an additional pseudo-CCH, which is formed by lifting loops.

18th row: 3 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 VP, skip a loop, // (1 Dc, 1 VP, skip a loop)* repeat 5 times, 1 Dc, 1 VP, 1 Dc in the next column, 1 VP, skip a loop //* repeat everything in double slanted brackets 10 times, (1 dc, 1 ch, skip a loop)* repeat 7 times, connecting psc.

The hat is ready. If you were unable to knit very tightly and tightly, or you want more rigidity to be sure, then when knitting the last 19th row, you can pass the wire inside the single crochets.

When knitting hats, I usually use this wire in two folds:

The length of the hat brim from the end of the crown is 2 cm. The outer diameter of the hat along the lower edge of the brim is 10.7 - 11.2 cm.

The hat can be decorated with ribbons by threading them through the holes of the 12th and 14th rows. I simply decorated one of the hats with a contrasting thread, threaded it through the holes according to the principle of cross stitching - first, inclined stitches from the lower left corner to the upper right, and then on top of them inclined stitches from the lower right corner to the upper left, you get a row of letters “X”:

If you are not knitting for Paola Reina or mini-Maru dolls, but for example, for Gotz, then after the 7th row you do not proceed to knitting the crown, but continue to expand the bottom to the desired size, trying it on after each row to the doll’s head. Each next row there should be 14 loops (DC or VP, it doesn’t matter) more than in the previous one, this algorithm must be followed until the bottom reaches the desired diameter.

Happy knitting! Let your dolls be beautiful!

The hat blank is knitted in a spiral (without lifting loops) with single crochets behind the back wall. In this case, a thin spiral line is formed on the front side. Sand-colored Iris threads. Hook No. 1.25.

1. Cast on 5 loops and close into a ring.
2. Knit 7 stitches into a ring.
3. In the next row, knit two stitches in each stitch. At this stage it is convenient to mark the beginning of the row with a stitch in a contrasting color.
4. We knit two stitches in every second stitch.
5-14. Next we knit two stitches in each 3 (4; 5…..12) stitch.
It is advisable to try on the resulting part of the bottom of the hat on the doll. I got 13 rows. You may need more or less, depending on the size of the doll and the density of the knitting.

15-28. We form the crown of the hat. We knit thirteen rows evenly, without decreasing or adding stitches. (The number of rows can be reduced or increased as desired)

29. Transition from crown to brim. Divide the number of columns by 6. If it is not divisible, add the required number of columns evenly. (I got 7*13=91= 6*15+5, so in this row I added five stitches: above 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90, but did not add above 15.)

30-43. Hat brim. We add columns every 16th. (Further above the 17th, 18th, etc.)

44. Turn the knitting and tie the edge of the hat with inverted stitches.

The hat blank is ready. Let's start finishing.
Important! If the hat is intended for children under three years of age to play with, it can only be decorated with embroidery without beads or sparkles.

At the bottom, under the brim of the hat, we sew lace or ribbon with bow folds.
Cut out flowers and leaves from felt. We embroider veins on the leaves.
Attach a satin ribbon to the crown of the hat.
Sew leaves and flowers to the hat.

Selecting a buckle suitable size. From felt or artificial leather cut out the strap to the appropriate length. Sew the strap to the crown of the hat.
When putting on such a hat, the bottom is slightly pressed along the line from the forehead to the back of the head, and the hat itself is slightly compressed from the sides.

We make a tight braid from twine. We tie the ends. We attach the pigtail to the crown of the hat.
We cut out feathers from felt (you can use real ones), fasten them under the pigtail and sew them on.
From the sides of the field we press it to the crown, and, if necessary, sew it on.

The hat blank is knitted in a spiral (without lifting loops) with single crochets behind the back wall. In this case, a thin spiral line is formed on the front side. Sand-colored Iris threads. Hook No. 1.25.

1. Cast on 5 loops and close into a ring.
2. Knit 7 stitches into a ring.
3. In the next row, knit two stitches in each stitch. At this stage it is convenient to mark the beginning of the row with a stitch in a contrasting color.
4. We knit two stitches in every second stitch.
5-14. Next we knit two stitches in each 3 (4; 5…..12) stitch.
It is advisable to try on the resulting part of the bottom of the hat on the doll. I got 13 rows. You may need more or less, depending on the size of the doll and the density of the knitting.

15-28. We form the crown of the hat. We knit thirteen rows evenly, without decreasing or adding stitches. (The number of rows can be reduced or increased as desired)

29. Transition from crown to brim. Divide the number of columns by 6. If it is not divisible, add the required number of columns evenly. (I got 7*13=91= 6*15+5, so in this row I added five stitches: above 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90, but did not add above 15.)

30-43. Hat brim. We add columns every 16th. (Further above the 17th, 18th, etc.)

44. Turn the knitting and tie the edge of the hat with inverted stitches.

The hat blank is ready. Let's start finishing.
Important! If the hat is intended for children under three years of age to play with, it can only be decorated with embroidery without beads or sparkles.

At the bottom, under the brim of the hat, we sew lace or ribbon with bow folds.
Cut out flowers and leaves from felt. We embroider veins on the leaves.
Attach a satin ribbon to the crown of the hat.
Sew leaves and flowers to the hat.

Select a buckle of the appropriate size. We cut out a strap of the appropriate length from felt or artificial leather. Sew the strap to the crown of the hat.
When putting on such a hat, the bottom is slightly pressed along the line from the forehead to the back of the head, and the hat itself is slightly compressed from the sides.

We make a tight braid from twine. We tie the ends. We attach the pigtail to the crown of the hat.
We cut out feathers from felt (you can use real ones), fasten them under the pigtail and sew them on.
From the sides of the field we press it to the crown, and, if necessary, sew it on.